Wine Find: Angelo’s Ristorante

At Angelo’s, you’re more than a customer–you’re a friend

By Chris Nishiwaki

Angelo’s Ristorante

601 SW 153rd ST
Burien,WA 98166
(206) 244-3555
www.angelosofburien.com

Angelo’s Ristorante in Burien is the sort of Italian joint where the lady answering the phone relays a call to owner and wine director Frank Ricci with a hearty, “Hey Frankie! It’s for you,” for the entire dining room to hear.

It’s a family-owned, family joint. And Ricci treats his regulars, whom he refers to as friends, like family.

“They are good customers,” Ricci said. “I don’t know what else to call them.”

Ordering from the wine list is for the uninitiated at Angelo’s. Frank’s “friends” can pick the wines straight from the stable-temperature wine storage. The wine cellar features finds such as a verticals of Guado al Tasso (97 to 01), Ornellaia (97, 98, 00), 97 Sassicaia and 2000 Solaia. For the Washington wine drinker there are verticals of Leonetti Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon going back to 2000, verticals of Quilceda Creek (99 to 05), the entire portfolio from Long Shadows and boutique producer Soos Creek.

Corkage is $10 but waived if guests order a bottle from the list.

WINO Match-Maker: Branzino and Vino

Chester Gerl and Chris Lara Bring You the Perfect Pair

By Julien Perry

“What wine goes with this dish?” It’s a question WINO wants to help you answer by tapping into the wine libraries of those who know best. In this issue, chef Chester Gerl of Matt’s in the Market teams up with his wine director, Chris Lara, to bring you a knock-out dish with wines to match. From the bargain wine to the splurge, we’ve got you covered.

Roasted Branzino with Manila Clams, Spanish Chorizo, Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes and Purple Tomatoes

This recipe has all the bright colors of spring, but is perfect for fall. Chef Chester Gerl took inspiration from Pike Place Market to create this dish, which he recently presented at the James Beard House in NYC. Almost everything in this recipe was purchased from the Market—from the signature spice blend courtesy of Market Spice, to the branzino and clams. The tomatillos, however, are from Chester’s personal garden. The apple-sweet fruit will be gone by the first frost, but can be found in most supermarkets year-round.

Tavern Law

The folks behind Spur Gastropub bring you a new craft cocktail experience

By Rocky Yeh

Tavern Law

1406 12th Ave
Seattle, WA 98122-3906
(206) 322-9734
www.tavernlaw.com

Tucked away in a condo building on Capitol Hill, Tavern Law is Seattle’s newest addition to the craft cocktail scene. Brought to you by the team behind Spur Gastropub, chefs/owners Brian McCracken and Dana Tough, along with bar manager David Nelson, further extend their vision of good food paired with exceptional drink.

Walking in the front door, you are immediately struck by the comfortable woods and long curving bar inviting you to relax and absorb the speakeasy vibe. The tall shelves of legal tomes set the scene to reinforce the name and image while wrapping you in its masculine embrace. An extensive menu heavy on concoctions from the golden age of cocktails makes for great reading as you settle in to decide on your libation of choice. Syrups and tinctures are made in-house, and juice is fresh squeezed for each drink.

Where Everybody Knows Your Name: Beveridge Place Pub

A West Seattle watering hole makes you feel right at home

By Julien Perry

Beveridge Place Pub

6413 California Ave SW
Seattle, WA 98136
(206) 932-9906
www.beveridgeplacepub.com

What else are you going to name a pub located on the corner of California Avenue and Beveridge Place? The West Seattle hangout has been a popular watering hole for locals since October 2003. I know this, because not only do I live in the neighborhood, but the number of dogs in the joint nearly outnumbers the people. If that’s not a sure sign of a home-away-from-home, I don’t know what is.

It’s not unusual to walk in and see a couple of friends sitting on the couch playing checkers, or members of a book club hanging out in the back room discussing their current read while playing a game of foosball or darts. And then there’s the bar: a 1907 cherry-stained tiger maple centerpiece that was rescued from auction at the Buzz Inn in Kent.

Beveridge Place’s philosophy is to offer an ever-changing variety of craft-brewed draft ales and lagers on tap, focusing on those made in Washington. But there’s wine, too—about a half-dozen reds and whites, nothing more than $8 a glass. I had a very comforting moment with a glass of Townshend Cellars white table wine after I wrecked my car last summer. That was the same night I discovered Beveridge Place Pub didn’t serve food; if you’re hungry you’ll be given a collection of local restaurants’ take-out menus. You’re even welcome to bring food from home.

I bet you can even get one of the pub dogs to fetch you your slippers afterwards.

Editor’s Pick: Cascina Spinasse

Chef Jason Stratton has given the Seattle restaurant an overhaul

By Julien Perry

Cascina Spinasse

Cascina Spinasse

1531 14th Avenue
Seattle, WA 98122-4023
(206) 251-7673
www.spinasse.com

My inaugural visit to Cascina Spinasse can be summed up in one word: “meh.” But that was more than a year ago, when there was a different chef, a confusing set-course menu and an unexpectedly icy vibe. Fast-forward to August 2009. A new chef is announced who brings to the table a new menu, a new attitude and a staff who seems as if they are truly happy to be standing on their feet all night.

Chef Jason Stratton recently took over for Justin Niedermeyer, whom he helped launch Spinasse a year ago. The two also worked together during Jason’s five-year stint at Café Juanita. But all you really need to know is that pasta is still the focus at this neighborhood trattoria.

Embeding recipes with Kitchen Monki

As an online publisher, one of my favorite features of KitchenMonki.com is the ability to embed recipes into almost any publishing platform. With just a single line of cut-and-paste code, a formatted recipe, which includes ingredients, tags, and all the fixin’s, is rendered automatically to the page. Internet voodoo, to be sure.

Below is my own take on a Mediterranean sandwich, brought to you by the Monki.

Dulces Latin Bistro

Redefining Authenticity

By Erin Thomas

Dulces Latin Bistro
1430 34th Ave
Seattle, WA 98122-3334
(206) 322-5453
www.dulceslatinbistro.com

Finding authentic Latin fare is a daunting task in Seattle. So much so that the choices are to chance the taco truck on the Shoreline border or squeeze into the 500-square-foot restaurant that is La Carta de Oaxaca
with the rest of the Ballard hipsters.

According to the most recent American Community Survey, gathering census from 2005-2007, the city’s population is only 6.2 percent Hispanic or Latino, of any race. That being said, Seattle is not the most “authentically” Latin city north of the border.

But darn that statement if it will keep a few good souls from offering the real McCoy of legitimate Latin flavor in the Seattle food scene.

Bastille Café & Bar

New Ballard restaurant is off to a good start

By Julien Perry

Bastille Café & Bar
5307 Ballard Ave NW
Seattle, WA 98107
206.453.5014
www.bastilleseattle.com

I thought for sure I would hate Bastille. The months of buzz preceding its June 29th opening had hit fever pitch and I was convinced my expectations would be dashed. I even made my first trip to the Ballard café on Bastille Day to ensure I would be thoroughly disappointed. But, a funny thing happened—I had an enjoyable time.

Drink Pink

When it comes to food & wine pairing, it’s time to think Pink!

By Marcus Pape & Melissa Peterman, EAT & DRINK In The Northwest

You may resist the idea of rosé for various conscious or subconscious reasons. Maybe your hesitation is due to the stigma created twenty years ago by a little wine called Beringer White Zin (which is actually considered “blush” not rosé), or maybe you just don’t like the idea of drinking something pink. Well you’re not alone, because there are many people out there that faithfully declare “I won’t drink pink.” Why, because it’s not “serious” wine?!

Well, if you enjoy pairing wine and food, then you’ll want to take another “serious” look at this jewel of the dining room table. Rosé by nature is one of the best, most food-friendly wine styles available in your arsenal. It carries flavor and structure characteristics of both white and red wines, with the refreshing acidity of a white and tannic backbone of a red (depending on skin contact).

So, the next time you’re struggling with what to pair, or if you just don’t feel like trying so hard, rosé is your go-to option for almost any food-pairing occasion. Best of all, rosé wines tend to be less expensive than either of their full-blooded counter parts.

Iris Grill

An American Steakhouse worth the drive to somewhere out in America

By Erin Thomas

The Iris Grill
317 NW Gilman BLVD STE 28A
Issaquah, WA 98027
(425) 557-7899
www.theirisgrill.com

If you use Mapquest directions from Seattle to the Iris Grill in Issaquah, the text reports a twenty three-minute drive, while the map looks as if you’re driving across the country. Covering three bodies of water and over two main highways, the question rises of whether another “American steakhouse” is worth the effort. Granted, Lake Washington is crossed twice, and you coast along the side of Lake Sammamish, but Mapquest is nonetheless deceptive and discouraging.

If you can get over this disturbing image of (shock!) leaving the “mainland” of the city and crossing the floating bridge, you’ll find out why all the retired Microsoft CFOs and Google engineers reside on the eastside of the water.

Massive and dreamlike homes gaze over hilltops at the quaint and snug businesses, restaurants and coffee shops that line the unobstructed roadways surrounded by beds of blooming flowers and hand-built babbling brooks. Jazz music plays almost tenderly throughout the open corridors of the Gilman Village, home to over forty shops and restaurants for the past thirty-five-plus years, including the Iris Grill. Comfort and hospitality ensues almost instantly as the soft breeze whispers: “Welcome, awkward Seattle transplant, to the Iris Grill.”

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