Bottleology – White Heron Cellars with Cameron Fries

Grape vines have a unique ability to thrive in fairly harsh conditions.  Vineyards are often planted in dry climates to encourage their root systems to plunge deep into the ground in search of essential water and nutrients. It is this struggle and these stressed conditions that are essential in the production of high quality wine grapes, and which allows for greater individuality as a wine in the bottle.  While there is an element of “survival of the fittest” in the vineyard, this element can also be found throughout many aspects of the wine industry.

Cameron Fries, winemaker of White Heron Cellars and his wife Phyllis have met all the challenges of owning their own winery head on since their first vintage in 1986.  It’s the “sink or swim” scenario. It’s about the struggle and the daily demands of the business world that required this husband and wife team to dig deep throughout the growth of their winery from the ground up.  Here’s a bit of what Cameron experienced:

Bottleology – Woodinville Wine Cellars with Sean Boyd

During the month of September and through most of October, the grapes of Central Washington reach the end of their maturation process. These grapes are then politely plucked from the vine and taken away to serve a new, more noble, purpose: WINE! Usually under the cover of darkness, blanketed by cooler evening hours preserving freshness, this fruit is transported by truck to the many satellite wineries throughout the state. Awaiting these shipments at the wee hours of the morning, are the men and women who make up the Washington State wine industry. Ladies and gents, please take a bow, we love you!

For Sean Boyd, winemaker of Woodinville Wine Cellars, it was watching a truckload of Sauvignon Blanc grapes show up to the winery that has been one of the most memorable experiences for him as a winemaker—it was his “this is the job for me” moment.

More That Meets The Eye: Sean Boyd isn’t just another wine making descendent from California who moved to Washington State to start fresh.  Sean is very well traveled. He’s also made wine in four different countries, loves the wine from Washington State and believes in the potential of this wine region. He gained instant cool points when he told me that his father, Gerald Boyd, was the original editor of Wine Spectator.

Crafts-Man (ship): In the years leading up to making wine (professionally), Sean perfected his craft in many ways.  “I started in 1986 at Liquor Barns in California. I worked in wineries as a winemaking apprentice in four countries and spent many hours fine tuning techniques. I have worked harvest, sold wine at retail, and I have been making wine since I moved to Washington in 1998.  I love the hands-on experience, and working with people in restaurants and wine shops. I like the craftsmanship,” Sean said.

Bottleology – Desert Wind Winery with Greg Fries

Whether it’s a trip to your local grocer, a voyage through the back roads of the Northwest wine country, perhaps the magnetic draw into your favorite wine shop, or an in-depth read of your favorite WINO Magazine blog entry (Bottleology!), I can pretty much guarantee that you will cross paths with Greg Fries—or at least have a run-in with his value driven wines.

Greg Fries is a really nice guy, but FAR more importantly, Greg Fries is a winemaker. He’s worked very hard to get to where he is today, and he has spent many years managing and making wine for his very own Desert Wind Winery.  With the help of one very influential woman (Ms. Mother Nature—strictly business), some great vineyard sites in Eastern Washington and Oregon, a degree from UC Davis and a pilot’s license, Greg has been able to contribute to the world of wine in a big way.

[Purple] HAZE-lnuts: Commonly referred to as “filberts,” these nuts can be found all over Oregon. I refer to them as Greg’s family’s “gateway crop,” a crop that they ultimately replanted into vast g rapevine vineyards (vitis vinifera). When Greg was younger, his family farmed cotton and tomatoes in Californ ia. Growing up in that kind of environment most likely sparked his interest in agriculture and also played a key role in Greg’s decision to go to school for Agricultural business.

You See!: Going to school and getting an education CAN be fun! At UC Davis, Greg earned a degree in Fermentation Science. He took a beer brewing course, and as luck would have it, while he was there, his family started a winery!  It’s called Duck Pond Cellars. JEALOUS!!!

A New Perspective on the Retrospective of Northwest Wines—Your Back Stage Pass

The Retrospective of Northwest Wines is a competition held annually for the past twenty-three years at Ray’s Boathouse in Seattle, Washington. The scores are in, and are being tallied as we speak—the wines were judged on January 5^th & 6^th from 12-2pm each day. In order for a winery to participate in this blind competition, two wine samples must be submitted per winery, and each winery must be prepared to have two cases available for purchase by Ray’s Boathouse if they win! The cases of the winning wines will be served at the awards dinner. All Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia wineries that produce wines made from the beloved grape were eligible to participate. This is really a great event for the wineries; because it’s free to enter, and it allows their wine an opportunity to stand out amongst a pack of 450+ entries.  Smelling, tasting, swirling and spitting these wines were a team of DEDICATED Sommeliers (yours truly), Wine Writers and local wine experts. Wine Director Richard Kelsey organized the tasting, along with his honed professional wine staff, all of whom showcased an absolute professionalism likely developed from the many years of working this event.

With that in mind, I’d like to share with you an inside look at the event from my perspective as one of the elected wine judges, and more specifically, what I found in the categories I tasted.  I’ll preface by telling you I make no official claims, I can ONLY to tell you which wines ultimately stood out to ME—whose names I learned AFTER turning in my score cards. There were also four judges per category, so my results alone will only contribute to the overall scoring of that particular category.

Bottleology – Quilceda Creek with Paul Golitzin

A reckoning in Washington wine has occurred and you may have missed it—but it’s not too late.  A number of variables have contributed to great wine production here in Washington, most specifically Quilceda Creek Winery and its uncompromising efforts in their mastering of Cabernet Sauvignon. These wines have the ability to change your life—they changed mine.  Here are a few words from the maker, Paul Golitzin, and my tasting notes from his new release.

Think Locally, Act Globally: A short forty minute drive from Seattle gets you to the front door of Quilceda Creek Winery.  Paul says he’s “trying to make a wine, consistently, that can compete on a global scale and be second to none.” He credits much of Washington State’s wine success to the growing conditions and lack of maritime influence. I’d just like to credit the thirsty Washington wine consumer who day-in and day-out continues to support Washington wines success by drinking them!

S.O.L.: For those of you aspiring to make wine at the level of Paul Golitzen, I have some sad news for you:  If you didn’t start your career path at the age of seven like him (he helped his father in the cellar), it may be too late. Paul credits many past life experiences to his wine advancements, and here are three main contributers: a trip to France at age fifteen began his passion for wine; support and guidance from great mentors–his Great Uncle, Andre Tchelistcheff, his son Dimitri, (who makes wine for Jarvis in CA) and his father; and a “holy grail” moment in the company of a 1989 Haut Brion.

Bottleology – Nodland Cellars with Tim and Tracy Nodland

Please pay attention—I have a discovery to announce.  Immersed in the wine business as a Sommelier and Wine Writer, I’m always on the hunt for inspiring greatness. In particular, I look for those that are genuine, and I seek wines that are unique and apart from the main stream.  My intention is to also be the first to discover that special something.  On this day, I’d like to make it official that Tim and Tracy Nodland of Nodland Cellars in Spokane, Washington offer me just that.  Here’s the Bottleology look-behind-the-bottle.

T-N-T: On an immediate “cool note,” Tim is a musician who put himself through college as a guitarist touring nightclubs throughout the western United States. Later, he got a job booking bands with a talent agency.

“I worked with ‘hair’ bands in the late 1980s and at one time had eighteen metal bands on the road all over the country. I still play guitar, but now I usually play jazz and my performances are a little more laid back than what I was doing with music in my early career,” Tim said.

Tracy–a stunning woman with Sicilian looks and charm–loves to oil paint.  Her murals can be found on the winery walls, with titles like, “I Love My Job” and “Submerged In My Work.” Tim says, “She can also take anything and arrange it to make it look beautiful.”

Together they collaborate and channel their creativity into making wine.

Bottleology – Tasawik Winery: “Dedication From Vine To Wine”

Yet another transplant to good ‘ole Washington wine country, Norwegian winemaker Erik Dahle and partner SaraBroetje together make up Tasawik winery.  I took a little time to sit down with Erik and get a sense of the whats and whys of Tasawik.

Grocery List: Milk, Sugar, Shampoo, Pop Tarts, Bread Yeast, Eggs, Tooth Paste…20 lbs. of partially rotten grapes: Erik at 17, made his first batch of wine, and fortunately his worst–using over-the-counter ingredients from mom’s grocery list. Erik said, “I had no idea what I was doing, but it was so much fun and I just loved the process of it.”

AMERICA, are you serious? A hop, skip and a jump later, in an effort to finish up college, Erik moved from Norway to  Seattle—that was in 1992. He began tasting some California and Washington wines and realized he was close to some really good wine country and started toying with the idea of his own vineyard.

Johnny Apple Seed: Erik’s “real job,” as he puts it, is working for one of the biggest apple orchards in the world, located in Eastern Washington. Inspired one day, Erik decided to buy a little land, hoe a bit of earth and sow some seeds there.  Instead of apple trees, Erik planted grape vines.  Instead of an orchard, Erik has a vineyard. He now brings new meaning to “Red Delicious,” by fermenting Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Merlot.

Bottleology – Larry Lehmbecker of Vin Du Lac, has the “Lac-down” on Lake Chelan

I Learned It From Watching You: Larry is from the Seattle area–Renton actually–and grew up in a household of home winemaking. His parents were his role models, who both had a fond appreciation for the fermented juice.  His winery, Vin Du Lac, puts their “home brew” to shame with an annual production of 10,000 cases [gulp, gulp, gulp].

For Some It’s East Jabip—For Larry It’s Home: Several decades ago Larry “discovered” Chelan, WA. At that time he was just a teenager and he always found himself there due to his love for the outdoors (maybe it was because of a broken compass). Regardless, Larry ultimately spent ten years looking for a place to call home in that area. Finally, in 2002 he signed on a property set on a hilltop, 200 feet above Lake Chelan, with orchards and now seven acres of vineyard.  Larry is now what you’d call, “a happy camper.”

Larry Says: “It’s certainly the most creative thing I’ve ever done.  I can’t sing, I can’t dance, I can’t draw.  I don’t have any of those creative talents, but by god I can make wine.”

The TA-DA!: In 2005 the Vin Du Lac 2003 Cabernet Franc was released and made it into a tasting competition held by some other wine magazine called, Wine Press Northwest, [PRE-WINO!]. This magazine holds an annual “Platinum” competition, where they take all the wines from that year that they’ve awarded gold medals too and re-taste them to pick the Platinum winners.  That year Larry’s wine was picked as THE Top Wine in the Northwest.

Excuse me, WAITER: Larry’s a smart guy. He has his own Law practice, prides himself on being able to make sense of large amounts of information and is a self-taught wine maker. As smart as that makes him, the guy knows when to call on the advice of a Sommelier or restaurant server when selecting wines outside of Washington State while dining out. Coming from a professional server [yours truly], I respect that. Larry, equally a salesman, added: “honestly, I end up drinking a lot of my own stuff.  If I go to a restaurant and everything looks pretty sketchy, if I see some Vin Du Lac on there [the wine list], I’m going to order the Vin Du Lac because I know it’s good.”

Bottleology – She moved from California to Washington to make wine. Hillary Sjolund of Di Stefano Winery, is obviously a smart woman!

Hillary Sjolund grew up in the heart of Anderson Valley on the Mendocino coast in Northern California, but that wasn’t where she found her love affair with wine—it was while attending UC Davis as a Pre Med student. Hillary said, “I had no clue whatsoever that it was a wine making school and that wine making was a degreed program,” so she took wine making as an elective.  The course, instructed by Carole Meredith of Lagier Meredith Winery, was one that enthralled Hillary and captured the culture and history of wine.  It was in that class, “I figured out what I wanted to do,” she said.

Her start: Her first job in the wine business was at Pine Ridge Winery in Napa Valley as a lab tech, where she said “I became the intern that never went away,” that is until she headed south to make wine for a stint in the Colchagua Valley of Chile.

Heads up: Mark Newton of Di Stefano Winery in Woodenville, Washington, had been growing the winery and it got to the point that he needed help from a wine making diva. Mark decided to hire a head hunter [obviously a good one].   Hillary clearly made the right choice and left California fro Washington State!

This is why I’m hot: In California there is a lot of competition, and working on your own projects as a winemaker is much more expensive.  So, here in Washington, Hillary has more freedom to buy the highest quality grapes and more of them—some girls would call that shopping. “Washington is still a very young industry here, it’s very collaborative and I’ve had a lot of fun working with the growers and other winemakers—it’s been a good time,” she said.

Psssssst: Look for a release coming soon from her own personal label—she’s big on Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mama Mia: Hillary looks to soon incorporate Italian varietals into the Di Stefano portfolio to the winery’s program to better brand its Italian heritage.

Bottleology – Gifford Hirlinger wines may appear on your next billing statement… and that’s OK

Idaho to Italy: Mike Berghan is from Sandpoint, Idaho–population 8,216. I can tell you, if you don’t already know it, the place is beautiful—but then there’s Florence Italy. Mike’s junior year in college was spent in Italy and it was where, as the Italians call it, “The Magic Happened.” During his work-study there he met his best friend, whose family just so happened to own Caymus Vineyards in the Napa Valley.

Subliminal Message:V  I  S  I  T  G  I  F  F  O  R  D  H  I  R  L  I  N  G  E  R W  I  N  E  R  Y

What Did You Drink While In Italy Mike?: “I was drinking a lot of just local stuff. There was this little restaurant called La Spata—we became friends with the owner. They made this little house wine, it was just a couple of brothers who made it with locally grown grapes. So we drank a lot of that, and to be honest we drank a lot of boxed wine called Tavernella [at the time it was just $.60/L]. We just called it Buzz in a Box!”

3, 2, 1, CONTACT: Mike had just completed a degree in International Finance and shortly thereafter was “shuffling papers around” at Solomon Smith Barney—he lost interest quick and said, “screw it!”  Mike had a contact and friend who was managing a Pinot [Noir] vineyard in Sonoma Valley and asked him if he knew of anyone looking for help.  He was given two names, and the first guy he called gave him a job working for a vineyard management company.  He then noted, “I was the only Gringo out in the vineyards down there and I just had a blast doin’ it.” Mike added, “I learned a lot of dirty Spanish in the three years I was there.”

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