Jesse Lange is a man that deserves a hug, a handshake, a pat on the back and your applause.  This arranged gratitude that I encourage is due to the fact that his winery, Lange Estate in Dundee, sets the bar for Oregon Pinot Noir–ask just about anyone.  Jesse has dedicated his life in no small way to delivering us pinot-philes the chronic pleasures that these grapes possess. Out of pure respect, I’m here to offer you his story and a glimpse into his world and the making of this fine wine.

Home Sweet Home: Jesse is a second generation winegrower and winemaker at his family’s estate winery in the heart of Oregon wine country: the Dundee Hills. He’s been growing grapes with his family since 1987 on their 60 acres, reserved especially for Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay. LUCKY!

Neat Freak: Wine has some really neat aspects! Jesse was drawn to wine because he’s “always loved the way wine incorporates agriculture and science. And it’s such a compelling beverage.” He reflected on his first wine experience and said, “It was drinking a Pinot Noir straight from the basket press in our garage in Santa Barbara. Circa 1984.”

Bookworm: A bookworm isn’t a pest found in the vineyard—it’s actually a welcomed critter, much like a ladybug or an earth worm.  To get to where he is today Jesse had to hit the books hard. He studied enology and viticulture in New Zealand at Lincoln University in 1999, but most of his knowledge came from the vineyard and winery itself.

Get it, Got it Good: Jesse is a power player in Oregon. He told me about the roles and responsibilities he maintains in the wine business.

“My job as General Manager and Winemaker is pretty dynamic as I oversee our team of dedicated employees, our vineyard operation, sales and marketing, and of course winemaking. I’m fortunate enough to serve on the board of directors for our leading industry event, the Oregon Pinot Camp, I’m also a member of the Willamette Valley Winegrowers Association, and currently serve as President of the Dundee Hills Winegrowers Association.”

Dazed and Confused: As the line goes, “I only came here to do two things: kick some ass and drink some beer. Looks like we’re almost out of beer.” If Jesse were to write the lines in an effort to illustrate his motives, he’d say, “I only came here to do two things, make world class Pinot Noir and strive to make this business as successful as possible. Looks like we’re almost sold out of the 2006 vintage of world class Pinot Noir.”

To Do List: Jesse seems to find some balance between work and play, and said “I dig running, biking, skiing, fly fishing, and basically anything outdoors and athletic. Gotta keep in shape for harvest!” By that he refers to his work in the vineyard: hoeing, shoveling, moving wires, pruning, harvesting, tractor driving, cleaning tanks, moving hoses and prepping fermentation tanks. He also works with national distribution and retails sales, claiming “there pretty much isn’t anything I haven’t done when it comes to vineyard/winery tasks.”

Happy Happy, Joy Joy: Jesse told me about one of the rewards of winemaking, and stated, “The best reward is getting a card or email from a customer that has glowing things to say about a wine you made that they shared with their very best friends and family. To be able to contribute to somebody else’s Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner in a meaningful way is very special to me. At its best, wine brings people together.”

With Pleasure: I asked him what his favorite guilty pleasure was and what he drinks most. Jesse responded with his guilty pleasure of sunflower seeds and filet mignon (consumed separately). As for his favorite beverage(s) he was quick to list: water, and wine (in that order).

Collect Call: As he mentioned, Jesse enjoys fishing–he actually collects fly fishing rods. The hobby has also spilled out onto his wine labels, each of which are decorated with a single fly fishing lure.

Geeking Out: A wine nerd is one who is known for his or her absolute immersion in their work, and Jesse Lange qualifies! He told me, “I’m very passionate about getting to know the nuances of every variation of Pinot Noir, including soil types, microclimates, clone, rootstock, barrel influence, etc…it never ends! For instance, we have about 400 different barrels of Pinot Noir from the 2009 vintage right now. It’s just amazing how many different profiles are expressed.”

I Think I Can: If Jesse hadn’t taken the path of a winemaker, he said that he’d be, “playing shortstop for the Chicago Cubs or shooting guard for the Blazers. One can only dream.”  Yeah and if you had gone that route, I’d be making your wine and it would be called ‘Bender’!” Let’s drink to that.

A Mouth Full:  Lange Estate Winery, Three Hills Cuvee Pinot Noir 2007 $40ish 750 cs.

The Three Hills Cuvee is their top blended Pinot Noir and melds influences from their three oldest vineyard sites: Lange Estate, Freedom Hill, and Yamhill Vineyards. “We bottle all three as single-vineyard designates,” Jesse adds. “They work so well in concert; we’re obliged to blend at least a little. I think the wine has great Oregon Pinot Noir expression while also have many tiers of complex flavors: fruit, spice, and exceptional balance.”

There’s a lot of “hoopla” and “blah-blah-blah” about the 2007 vintage in Oregon.  It’s a vintage that is legendary, but for all the wrong reasons and I’m quick to call-out, all the wines that fell prey to the predator that was the rainfall and early harvesting. In doing so, there are wines that I’d also like to recognize, and Lange’s Three Hills Cuvee is one of them.

Femininity is this wines appeal–coming from me, a masculine lad.  Up close and personal I notice a scented nose of sassy spice: cardamom, hazelnut and ginger.  She’s alive with vivid fruit character and perfume, lively with bright cherry, rose hip and red berries.  The upfront fruit on the palate is this wines strong point—it’s quite sexy.  There are some candied cherry pop elements to this gal that keeps her young, playful and delicious. Tart acidity, delicate tannins and balanced alcohol are reminders that this one is going to meet mom.  She’s a redhead in high heels, manicured nails, and luscious lips, with a little bit of attitude and is as curvaceous as the bottle itself.  “Pop the cork, pop the question!”

Lange Estate Winery and Vineyard

18380 NE Buena Vista Drive
P.O. Box 8
Dundee, Oregon 97115
Phone (503) 538-6476

We at WINO Magazine would  love to hear your feedback, simply leave a comment below!

For an interview, please contact me: dave@winomagazine.com

Winemaker Patrick Reuter of Domino IV Winery

The subconscious of the winemaking mind, aloud:

A fist full of dirt is not to be taken lightly in this world of wine; it is the essence of all that you help to harness.  A face full of sun today helps to mother and nurture your offspring of tomorrow, from seeds to grapes and juice to bottles.  The morning dew, an afternoon rain shower, the temperate night, the fog and the ocean, all rear the identities of your land and your fruit.  Your role, and that of your equipment, is to what? Ask yourself, “Do I play the role of the interpreter?” Or “Need I become the messenger?”  What’s the difference?  Here is a message from a winemaker in Oregon with a rather holistic approach, who’s well aware of his role:

Now and Then: Patrick Reuter is the winemaker and co-owner of Dominio IV Winery in Mosier, Oregon.  The winery began in 2002 and he has been working with fruit from Viognier, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo ever since. Patrick has learned about winemaking while working harvests in Chile, New Zealand, Napa, Burgundy, and of course Oregon.  He’s also a graduate from UC Davis where he studied “terroir” while his wife simultaneously studied viticulture.

Art Imitates Life: I had asked Patrick what he enjoyed most about winemaking. Here’s what he had to say:  “I love the full circle aspect and necessity to integrate into the process. It’s not so much about showing who you are through the wines, but rather losing the self through becoming a part of the wine.”  He added, “Sometimes the only reason to do something is to see its beauty in the end. When you are done, you walk away feeling better than if you had not done that something.”

It’s All Happening: For some individuals, the path of making wine is paved for them by family decedents. For others, wine making desires are discovered through exposures to the product in any number of forms. For Patrick, it was working in the restaurant industry. He told me quite simply that,“life funneled me into it.”

Eye of the Beholder: The life of the winemaker is far from glorious.  It’s a profession that requires commitment and its own unique vows. Patrick added, “It seems as though the hard way is the only way. I have learned that what you think is a mistake, may end up to be one of the greatest attributes to a wine. Not always…but you need to stay open to possibilities.” So… your saying that my children might NOT be delinquents!?!

Wine-Not: In his world unrelated to wine, Patrick enjoys work in metal sculpture and furniture. He likes to build, loves to play soccer, enjoys writing poetry, and he also paints. “I think meditation is the best way to better the self,” he says. Patrick is also learning how to play the guitar and comments,“I’m not very talented, but it’s good to learn something that you find difficult.” If he wasn’t making wine, Patrick could picture himself running an eco fish farm in Southern Spain.

Born Again: I like to compare the “epiphany moments” in wine, to the feeling of would-be rebirth. Blindsided, the moment creeps in and settles as you work to comprehend the soon to be sensory overload. Recognizing that moment the first time, often catches you off-guard. Perhaps all too familiar, your endorphins are already mimicking a climactic sexual experience.  Any other day, any other moment and it may have never tasted so good. Sometimes a wine’s drinking window is extremely narrow–then I remember the quote: “There are no great wines, only great bottles.” It’s these moments that keep us wine nerds excited about the world of wine.

For Paul, his first epiphany moment was in 1992 with his wife. It was as he said, “An aged Bordeaux in that we took hours to drink and love.”

Breathe Easy: One of Patrick passions is breathing. He stated, “Learn to breathe correctly. Everything else follows that.” A decanter can also assist you in this process.

R.E.S.P.E.C.T.: In terms of respect, Patrick appreciates wineries that grow at least a portion of their own fruit, and ones that don’t go for an “internationally port styled” red table wine. “I like Alsatian wines, just ripe Washington wines, and lesser known Iberian and Italian varietals. I drink a lot of Oregon Pinots which I enjoy, but I don’t like dissections fraught with comparisons.”

The Message: “Come taste what comes naturally. We want to connect people to the land and the experience of the vineyard.” –Patrick Reuter, Winemaker, Messenger

A Mouth Full: 2006 Tempranillo “Sketches of Spain”, Columbia Gorge $25, 250 Cases
According to Patrick, this is just when Tempranillo starts to take off, about four years after its vintage. He mentioned that it reveals the bright fruit qualities of Tempranillo and offers a sense of the land.

Overall, I found this Tempranillo to be adequate and fairly priced. I found this wine to be laced firmly in oak, followed by tart red fruit character and concluding with a medium plus dusty tannin structure. Over-analysis of this wine I feel isn’t necessary; it’s a “less is more” kind of wine. Clearly this wine has the ability to age further with regard to its structural elements. I’m curious as to how well the fruit will hold up over the next 3-5 years….only one way to find out!

I believe that Tempranillo will do well in both the hot climates of Oregon and Eastern Washington.  I recommend you try Dominio IV and others in a side by side comparison, and follow the grape’s Northwest evolution.

Contact Dominio IV:

patrick@dominiowines.com

We at WINO Magazine would  love to hear your feedback, simply leave a comment below!

For an interview, please contact me: dave@winomagazine.com

Sadly for you this event is now over, however I’d like to offer you the names of the wines that I enjoyed most. To preface, I was invited to be a guest judge at this event; there was twenty of us.  We began tasting at 5pm and we had one hour before the event of 300, officially opened its doors. My mission was to taste roughly 80 wines throughout the evening, which included both Syrah blends; and single varietal Syrah bottlings.  I was to ultimately pick three wines for each category and give them medals of gold, silver and bronze.  This was a casual judging, in which we knew full well whose wine we were tasting, due to the fact that this was not a blind tasting.  This feature did however create its own challenges when rating the wines, because each winery had their own sales techniques. However for some wineries, there was little that could be done to alter my judgment—thank you spit bucket.  Here is a list of wines that I couldn’t help but swallow.

Syrah:

Bunnell Family Cellar – 2007 Boushey-McPherson  Syrah,  $43
Had it all going on, classic, complex, balanced

Gamache Vintners – 2005 Estate Syrah,  $28
Full throttle typicity, super meaty, glycerin,  great Syrah producer

Gilbert Cellars – 2007 Syrah,   $26
Biggest, most structured, young, nuanced

Kerloo Cellars – 2007 Les Collines Syrah,  $32
Not overdone, dark, winery to watch

Smasne Cellars – 2007 Block #3 Lawrence Vineyard Syrah, $35
Delicious, crowd pleaser, vanilla

Syrah Blends:

Bunnell Family Cellar- 2007 À Pic, $32
Good composition, balance, safe

Forgeron Cellars- Walldeaux Smithie, $16
Yum, juicy, thick, tasty, value

Rotie Cellars- 2008 Northern Blend, $35
Fantastic, firm acid, focused, fruit purity, cult wine in the making

Taste them, drink them, buy them, love them and read WINOMAGAZINE.COM on the regular.

Winemaker Trey Busch of Sleight of Hand Cellars

One of the most complicated things to do in the wine business is to convey the intended message of a wine.  This task of describing a wine’s flavor profile, articulating that flavor into words, and delivering truthful content able to be translated by the reader clearly, is forever challenging.  There are no photos to explain the flavors. No maps or illustrations. Just words. Respectfully, my role is to do the wine justice–for better, or worse.

Now that’s just wine! Certainly a more delicate subject is the challenge of describing a human being and giving them the accolades they deserve.  As I ponder my attempt, I start by telling you that his name is Trey Busch, and his wine is called Archimage. I’m about to try and do them both some justice.

Classifieds: Trey Busch–wine maker and co-owner of Sleight of Hand Cellars in Walla Walla–quickly set the tone, “I am 40 years old, a Scorpio, and I like the color blue, the smell of fresh rain, and 70’s Heavy Metal….just kidding. Not really. Anyway, I own the winery with Sandy and Jerry Solomon, and we started it about 3 years ago.”

Record Label: I’m certain that Trey will be quick to tell you that he LOVES music. After all, his wine label, “Sleight of Hand,” is named after a song from his favorite band of all times: Pearl Jam.  He claims (and I won’t argue) that, “We have the best tasting room in Washington State! Where else can you walk in and choose your own music…on Vinyl of course! I think music is a great ice breaker, and it relaxes people. It makes them feel less intimidated about the tasting experience if they’re not used to wine tasting. We are very laid back and want people to enjoy themselves and have a good time, and of course we hope they like the wines.”

KRAFT: Trey was hired by Eric Dunham in 2000 as an Assistant Winemaker. Eric knew that Trey didn’t have any experience, but took the risk. It was Eric who helped to develop Trey’s craft of making wine. Along the way Trey read lots of books and talked with winemakers from all over the world in his attempt to fine-tune his abilities. Trey’s not afraid of taking risks or experimenting to improve his wines.  Here’s an experiment:

(1) Boil some macaroni. (2) Strain. (3) Add Kraft powdered cheese packet. (4) Return to heat. (5) Serve and enjoy with excessive amounts of Sleight of Hand Cellars wine (kids 21+). Yum!

Kids Inc. (K.I.D.S.): If you asked his wife Jennifer about the family, she’d tell you that she has three kids–Kailey (age 11), Chloe (age 4) and Trey (age 40).  Trey said, “I don’t argue with her on that.”  Trey boasted to me that he and his wife have been married for 16 years, and together for 20.  I asked Trey if the kids were “bottle feeding” yet, he laughed.

Loop: Trey said he’s forever passionate about “Music, Pearl Jam, live concerts….did I miss anything to do with music?”

MEMOIR-ies: I asked Trey if he remembered his first wine experience, I then cued the chimes to jog his memory…he told me about three: “First, I got into wine with off-dry Riesling, because it was a little sweet and made the transition easy. That was in my early 20s. My first “wow” moment came when I tasted Eric Dunham’s 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon–still a top five wine of all time for me. And lastly, when I opened a bottle of 1990 Cheval Blanc with my good friend Ronnie Sanders in Philly, I knew wine was something that transcended the ordinary. We were in a little Italian Restaurant, and after decanting, the only thing you could smell in this place was the wine. It completely overpowered the aromas of that great Italian food. That bottle housed the greatest wine I have ever tasted to this day.”  Afterward, I did a price check: the 1990 Cheval Blanc is selling for $1000.

FREE[time]: Trey LOVES music, so attending concerts is one of his favorite things to do. He said, “And some would say I spend too much time listening to Pearl Jam, but I disagree…” I’ll give him credit and tell you that he also mentioned his joy for spending time with his wife and kids—music PROBABLY takes a CLOSE 2^nd to them.

Collect Call: Trey–to no surprise–collects Pearl Jam memorabilia. He has over 150 posters, well over 300 CDs (boot legs, live recordings etc…) and enough miscellaneous memorabilia to fill a museum.

+ Vice: If you’re an aspiring winemaker, here is some advice Trey would pass along to you: “Taste as many wines from different parts of the globe as you can. Start a tasting group with your peers, and always question authority, but never yourself.”

(YOUR NICK NAME/S HERE): I asked Trey if he had a nickname, he said “I’m sure my wife has a few for me.”

RED BULL, rather ROCK STAR!: I’m always curious if winemakers ever feel like celebrities. So I asked Trey if he has ever had a celebrity status moment and he said, “Oh, that one is easy. Having Eddie Vedder drinking my wine on-stage in Chicago this past summer! I have pics from the 5^th row!”

A Mouth Full: Sleight of Hand, “Archimage”, Walla Walla, Washington Red Blend $40 297 cs.  54% Merlot 46% Cab Franc

This is a wine that Trey has made to honor Cheval Blanc of Bordeaux, at a fraction of the cost. Translated, the name Archimage means “master magician” in ancient Persia–“Arch” or top, and “Mage” like Magic or Magician. Illusions aside, here’s my translation of Archimage:

Stained woody aromas lend themselves well to spices of cumin, coriander and white pepper. Red fruit of current, cranberry and pomegranate intermix with a moderate twang of menthol.  On the palate, the wine creeps in up front, then the red fruit driven high acidity and tannins pry gently at your gum line. This wine is no doubt young.  The back label suggests a 12-15 year cellar-ability–it’s hard to say. What I suggest you do is buy this wine for your collection and hang a wine tag on it that says “Disappearing Act – 2013.” For instant gratification year round, buy Trey’s “Spellbinder” red wine blend–it’s almost too much rock for one hand!

Where The Magic Happens:

Sleight of Hand Cellars
16 North 2nd Avenue
Walla Walla, WA 99362
ph (509)525.3661
info@SofHcellars.com

We at WINO Magazine would  love to hear your feedback, simply leave a comment below!

For an interview, please contact me: dave@winomagazine.com

Winemaker Jamie Brown of Waters Winery

“Forgetaboutit is like if you agree with someone, you know, like Raquel Welch is one great piece of ass, forgetaboutit. But then, if you disagree, like a Lincoln is better than a Cadillac? Forgetaboutit! You know? But then, it’s also like if something’s the greatest thing in the world, like mingia those peppers, forgetaboutit. But it’s also like saying Go to hell! too. Like, you know, like “Hey Paulie, you got a one inch…?” And Paulie says, “Forgetaboutit!” Sometimes it just means forgetaboutit.”—Donnie Brasco

The Forgotten Hills in Walla Walla Washington, is an estate vineyard to Waters Winery, and it had me thinking  “Donnie Brasco.”  When I tasted the Syrah produced from this vineyard, I searched to find the boss who was making this stuff. Come to find out, he’s a friend of ours and he goes by the name Jamie Brown.

Stand-up guy: Jamie was exposed to handcrafted, boutique and international wines while working in restaurants, which gave him the ability to finance his enjoyment for playing music. He said, “At the same time, a wine movement was budding in my hometown of Walla Walla, so it only seemed natural to move home and pursue wine.” Jamie commented about wine and music’s unique relationship to one another and of the creative process found in both. For me, the relationship is as complimentary as spaghetti and meatballs—that’s amore!

The Commission: Jamie said, “I had friends from high school involved in wine, so I made some calls and got my foot in the door through these relationships. I worked at several local wineries as a jack of all trades. After a few years of gaining experience, two respected winemakers [who he vouches for] Eric Dunam and Christophe Baron, encouraged me to make my own wine. So I started James Leigh Cellars and soon the opportunity arose to start Waters.” Both Eric and Christophe have been referred to as “capo di tutti capi,” which literally means boss of bosses–no wonder Jamie’s vino is so good.

The books: When referencing the operation Jamie said, “I value the creative process in the wine industry just as much as the business side of winemaking and sales.”  Jamie is clearly leaving a paper trail of successful economics: quality = quantity ($).

The arm: In the world of the modern day mobster, I imagine that sometimes you’d find yourself traveling abroad to make new contacts, or to make an “exchange,” or even perhaps tell somebody that their “number’s up.”  That’s the arm of the Sicilian underground.

In Jamie’s world, he “[likes] to travel, build relationships and fulfill [his] artistic needs.”  He also said, “business partnerships are hard” and to “trust your gut.” Jamie passes these pieces of information down to anyone aspiring to do what he does—and that’s the arm of the wine business. Good lookin’ out.

Forgetaboutit- Jamie was drawn to a life in wine, because “I like to drink,” he says. His forgetaboutit moment was when he bought a bottle of Joseph Phelps in 1995 and realized that this wine was similar to music. He said, “You aren’t exposed in masses to the good stuff–you gotta search for it.”  Kinda like real Cuban cigars.

Friend of mine: Few in this business could survive if it wasn’t for the efforts of the entire community.  I asked Jamie who he respected most and he said, “Abeja, Cayuse, Buty, Rulo, Gramercy.” I would say those are definitely some heavy hitters and have my respect as well.

Big earner: I asked Jamie if he ever had a celebrity status moment doing what he does. Jamie whispered to me, “Hearing that the juice I made was being drank by actress Charlize Theron at Spago in Beverly Hills (she is a loyal customer of 21 Grams).”   Now that’s one sexy broad.

A Mouth Full: Waters, Forgotten Hills, Walla Walla, Syrah, 2007 $40

For Jamie this is the first wine that gave him confidence to realize that not every vineyard site needed to be ripe. He told me that this site was especially aromatic due to the restraint.  Jamie considers the Forgotten Hills vineyard the most distinct Syrah site he has ever found in the country.

On the nose this Syrah was quite earthy and reminded me of some California Pinot Noir I’ve come across. What I smelled came from both its Syrah typicity and also some elements from the oak.  I smelled warm notes of summer mulch, mushroom and dare I say truffle.  The oak played with my senses and led me to believe that it was once formerly used. Additionally, I noted dark strawberry and current.  On the palate, I was pleased to be reminded that not all Washington Syrah has to be an obese beast.  I thought about the future and how one day wineries like Waters will be example leaders for restrained Syrah production.  This wine was mostly balanced and pleasant.  Upfront, I enjoyed its creamy fruit character and on the mid-palate its acidity and light tannin. I did notice a small void to its short ended finish, but nothing another sip wouldn’t solve. This wine had medium complexity and fulfilled my craving for proper Washington Syrah. It is ready to drink now and for proper pleasure, go gangster and pop in a mobster movie.  Forgetaboutit!

Waters Winery

1825 JB George Road
Walla Walla, WA 99362

We at WINO Magazine would  love to hear your feedback, simply leave a comment below!

For an interview, please contact me: dave@winomagazine.com

Winemaker Cameron Fries of White Heron Cellars

Grape vines have a unique ability to thrive in fairly harsh conditions.  Vineyards are often planted in dry climates to encourage their root systems to plunge deep into the ground in search of essential water and nutrients. It is this struggle and these stressed conditions that are essential in the production of high quality wine grapes, and which allows for greater individuality as a wine in the bottle.  While there is an element of “survival of the fittest” in the vineyard, this element can also be found throughout many aspects of the wine industry.

Cameron Fries, winemaker of White Heron Cellars and his wife Phyllis have met all the challenges of owning their own winery head on since their first vintage in 1986.  It’s the “sink or swim” scenario. It’s about the struggle and the daily demands of the business world that required this husband and wife team to dig deep throughout the growth of their winery from the ground up.  Here’s a bit of what Cameron experienced:

City Slicker: Cameron Fries has lived in every major city on the west coast of the U.S., except Portland. Cameron said, “My father was a French chef so I always ate well. My dad always told me, ‘Whatever you do, don’t start a restaurant.’ So, wine seemed like the only logical choice.  After all, I wear size fifteen shoes…you can crush a lot of grapes with feet this size! Unfortunately, with big feet your pounds per square inch of pressure decreases.”

Swiss Miss: Switzerland always makes ME think of chocolate. Then, snapping out of my Toblerone trance, I heard Cameron say, “Basically, my wife and I decided to get into the wine industry in 1979.  We went to Switzerland for five years to learn how to make wine. My father was of Swiss origin, so I spent time as an apprentice and graduated from the Ecole Superieur de Viticulture et Oenologie de Changins on Lake Geneva in Switzerland.”

I Can Dig It: Cameron described to me his work planting the vineyard; he said, “In the spring of 1990 we began to remove sagebrush from a south-facing slope overlooking the Columbia River, basalt cliffs, and the foothills of the Cascade Mountains.  All our friends and family came together to assist in the difficult transformation from un-irrigated sagebrush to long rows of green vines.  Without the hard labor of our friends and family White Heron Cellars would not exist today.  Our primary investment in this winery has not been the money–we didn’t have it.  Instead it was the work of the shovel and hoe.”  Each year they plant another acre of vines, please contact the winery at:  info@whiteheronwine.com if you’re interested in some volunteer work—bring your back brace!

Not So Easy Street: You can really tell that Cameron has enjoyed the “process” of rearing the winery into what it is today.  Cameron said, “The joke in this industry is that to make a small fortune you have to start with a big fortune.  We started with no investors and no money so everything from the vineyard to the winery we have created with hard work.”

It’s evident that Cameron and his wife know the winery operations inside and out. HOWEVER, if Cameron had to do it all over again, he said, “I would get rich, before starting a winery.”

Wise Guy: Here’s some wisdom Cameron took from David Lake of Columbia Winery, “There are two kinds of wineries: wineries that have had problems and wineries that are going to have problems.”  Cameron concluded with, “The hardest thing to recognize is your own limitations. In other words, what tastes good to you may not appeal to others.” It sure is a good thing there is an overseas market for those types of wineries and wines. FEW, problem solved!

Watered Down: When Cameron has free time, he likes to go into the forest, stick a chair into the stream and read (with a nice glass of wine or beer).

Pinch Me: “My favorite wine experience occurred in the Jura Mountains in Switzerland, a mountain range somewhat similar to the Appalachians.  We were up there in the spring with wildflowers dotting the meadows, puff clouds in the sky, a wonderful soft cheese known as Vacherin Mont d’Or, good bread, dried meat from Graubünden, and a Chambolle Musigny.  The wine was outstanding but the point of the story is that the environment and mindset really make the wine,” Cameron said. Ummm Cameron, you’re drooling.

Fun Fact: White Heron Winery was the first to plant and bottle Roussanne in Washington State. WOW, now that was FUN!

OAK-ie Dokey: Here’s Cameron’s take on oak, he said, “We do not use new oak specifically, because we believe it covers up the unique terroir of the vineyard.  Thus our philosophy is to allow a pure expression of the grape variety and vineyard.  Because of the widespread use of oak in Washington, we tend to drink European wines more frequently.”

A Mouth Full: White Heron Cellars, Roussanne, Mariposa Vineyard, Columbia Valley 2005 $14.99 300 Cs.

This is a wine that Cameron describes as a white wine for red wine drinkers.  Roussasnne is a grape used in the Southern Rhone region of France often in a blends incorporating Marssanne and Viognier.  Roussanne is known for carrying great acidity and aromatics–it makes Cameron think of tropical beaches!

My Shelf Talker: Roussanne is a grape varietal you should be drinking more of, in replacement of [YAWN] most Chardonnay. Dollar for dollar you’re getting a much better deal! Here’s a Roussanne that is priced right.  Golden in color, you know you’re in for a ride.  The nose reveals yellow apple, pear, dried white flowers, green banana, fresh fig and minerals.  The palate is slick, almost oily, quite rich and mildly creamy.  There are notes of melon, low acid levels and again the yellow apple character.  This is defiantly a wine to ‘nerd’ with bit, the 5 years of bottle age has mellowed the acidity and brought about some secondary tones (not for everyone).  What’s great is that this wine is a bit more inspiring than your average $15.00, full bodied white wine. It makes you think about a realm of different ingredients to work with, like for me it was buttered crawfish—I’m just sayin’.

Bottleology: 88 pts.

White Heron Cellars
Quincy, Washington 98848
509-797-WINE (9463)
info@whiteheronwine.com

We at WINO Magazine would  love to hear your feedback, simply leave a comment below!

For an interview, please contact me: dave@winomagazine.com

Winemaker Sean Boyd of Woodinville Wine Cellars

During the month of September and through most of October, the grapes of Central Washington reach the end of their maturation process. These grapes are then politely plucked from the vine and taken away to serve a new, more noble, purpose: WINE! Usually under the cover of darkness, blanketed by cooler evening hours preserving freshness, this fruit is transported by truck to the many satellite wineries throughout the state. Awaiting these shipments at the wee hours of the morning, are the men and women who make up the Washington State wine industry. Ladies and gents, please take a bow, we love you!

For Sean Boyd, winemaker of Woodinville Wine Cellars, it was watching a truckload of Sauvignon Blanc grapes show up to the winery that has been one of the most memorable experiences for him as a winemaker—it was his “this is the job for me” moment.

More That Meets The Eye: Sean Boyd isn’t just another wine making descendent from California who moved to Washington State to start fresh.  Sean is very well traveled. He’s also made wine in four different countries, loves the wine from Washington State and believes in the potential of this wine region. He gained instant cool points when he told me that his father, Gerald Boyd, was the original editor of Wine Spectator.

Crafts-Man (ship): In the years leading up to making wine (professionally), Sean perfected his craft in many ways.  “I started in 1986 at Liquor Barns in California. I worked in wineries as a winemaking apprentice in four countries and spent many hours fine tuning techniques. I have worked harvest, sold wine at retail, and I have been making wine since I moved to Washington in 1998.  I love the hands-on experience, and working with people in restaurants and wine shops. I like the craftsmanship,” Sean said.

Kampai: Believe it or not, there is a Taste Washington, Tokyo.  In attendance, was Woodinville Wine Cellars and some of Sean’s wines which had just scored 92 points.  Feeling a bit like an American idol, Sean said it was a very proud moment for him, “they treated us like stars.”

The Matrix: In the movie The Matrix, in order for Neo to learn new skills or information he must lay back in a chair and have a metal rod jammed into the back of his head. While this process is a really fast way to learn something, it’s perhaps graphically uncomfortable to imagine, and outside of Hollywood, it’s impossible. Sean has come up with a new, more pleasant method to achieve similar results, with regard to wine of course. Here’s what you do:

Sit back in a chair, open a bottle of his wine, say “Odd Man Out,” pour it into a wine glass and relax. Over the duration of time that it takes to enjoy that glass, listen to what this wine says to you. While these messages may be coded much like in The Matrix, try and pick out the important parts. “Fire up the grill,” is what the wine said to me when I gave this method a try. Sean said, “A reward to making wine is that in the end you’re making memories for people.” If Sean were to visit, The Oracle, I know that she’d tell him that he was The One.

Opinions Are Like Assumptions—Everybody Has One: Sean told me that there was one thing in particular that he had to learn the hard way: “Never assume anything!”

Pulling The Plug: I was told that the general philosophy for the winery, first and foremost, is that it’s about food and wine. Here’s the plug: Sean says, “We also sell Lacanche French cooking range (www.frenchranges.com). We’re about whole food and wines—nothing artificial.” Additionally, Sean said, “We make wine as pure as possible. We do very little to the wine after the first racking. My theory is that if you’re doing things correct from the very start, you don’t need to fine, filter or use reverse osmosis.”

Washing-TON: Sean’s goal for the winery is to eventually be producing 5,000 cases annually–which is roughly equivalent to 80 TONS of Washington grapes.

A Mouth Full: Woodinville Wine Cellars, 2007 O.M.O., Columbia Valley 126 Cs. $36

75% Malbec, 25% Petit Verdot

Sean selected this wine for my review, because it showcased how he likes to do things differently sometimes.  More specifically, Malbec and Petit Verdot are rarely bottled together without the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. For this reason Sean has named this wine “Odd Man Out,” and he says, “It’s a perfect yin and yang.”

I compare the moment that I saw the blend listed on the bottle to when you hear a new food recipe with ingredients that just sound good together.  I got excited.  I love the “delicious factor” of these two varietals on their own, and after tasting them together, here’s what I found.

SO, sitting back in my chair, I began. When I saw the color of O.M.O. I was reminded of Malbec from Cahors, France, referred to as “black wine” because of its obnoxiously dark color.  This wine looked thick and sinful.  My time spent on the nose of this wine was brief, not much going on; however, as though I were on a treasure hunt, I knew that I was going to unearth something big.  And I did.

Take all the black fruits at the peak of summer, crush them up between your hands as they ooze out a magnificent purity, and stuff your mouth full—it was exactly that sensation. This wine is THAT bottle the doctor would recommend you have a glass of daily—it actually tastes good for you!  It was quenching, showing a thick juicy plum, blackberry, prune character and a finishing brightness of tart raspberry.  There are candied elements to this wine that almost makes me think Australia, but it doesn’t go too overboard—but almost. The oak was used just right, vanilla and delicious tannin.  This is certainly a happy bottle of wine!

NOW, this wine may not be for the wine geek or the collector looking to tuck one away for the ages, but this wine is still some pretty serious stuff.  I would suggest that you break it out when you want to impress that certain someone; it’s more than adequate.

Score: 91+

Woodinville Wine Cellars
17721 – 132nd Ave. NE
Woodinville, WA 98072
Phone 425-481-8860

Email winesales@woodinvillewine.com

For an interview or to offer feedback, please contact me: dave@winomagazine.com

Winemaker Greg Fries of Desert Wind Winery

Whether it’s a trip to your local grocer, a voyage through the back roads of the Northwest wine country, perhaps the magnetic draw into your favorite wine shop, or an in-depth read of your favorite WINO Magazine blog entry (Bottleology!), I can pretty much guarantee that you will cross paths with Greg Fries—or at least have a run-in with his value driven wines.

Greg Fries is a really nice guy, but FAR more importantly, Greg Fries is a winemaker. He’s worked very hard to get to where he is today, and he has spent many years managing and making wine for his very own Desert Wind Winery.  With the help of one very influential woman (Ms. Mother Nature—strictly business), some great vineyard sites in Eastern Washington and Oregon, a degree from UC Davis and a pilot’s license, Greg has been able to contribute to the world of wine in a big way.

[Purple] HAZE-lnuts: Commonly referred to as “filberts,” these nuts can be found all over Oregon. I refer to them as Greg’s family’s “gateway crop,” a crop that they ultimately replanted into vast g rapevine vineyards (vitis vinifera). When Greg was younger, his family farmed cotton and tomatoes in Californ ia. Growing up in that kind of environment most likely sparked his interest in agriculture and also played a key role in Greg’s decision to go to school for Agricultural business.

You See!: Going to school and getting an education CAN be fun! At UC Davis, Greg earned a degree in Fermentation Science. He took a beer brewing course, and as luck would have it, while he was there, his family started a winery!  It’s called Duck Pond Cellars. JEALOUS!!!

Prince: In 1982 a great song called “1999” was released by a man who changed his name to a symbol. On that note, in 1999 Greg became a certified pilot! He owns a Mooney Ovation II (I translate that to, SWEET) that he flies for both business and pleasure (perhaps not in that order). Greg’s family owns vineyards in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, the Willamette Valley and in Eastern Washington. Greg is very involved in the management of these vineyards. Additionally, he helps run the family wineries; Duck Pond in Dundee, Oregon and Desert Wind in Prosser, Washington. “The ability to fly myself between all those locations is a big help, and I enjoy it as well,” he added. Sorry ladies, I checked for you–Greg’s already taken.

Who Are You?: “I’m driven, and I really enjoy working to build our brand and make better wines. I get up early, and I work long hours, but that’s what I enjoy doing. I do whatever it takes to make our business run smoothly; on opening weekend at Desert Wind, I spent most of the weekend fixing plumbing issues and flagging traffic. It isn’t always a glamorous job.”

Memory Lane: When I asked Greg if he remembered his first wine experience, he said, “Two early wine memories come to mind, and they’re pretty different. The first was visiting the wine areas of France with my family when I was sixteen. We toured Champagne, the Medoc and Saint Emilion. I spent my 16th birthday in Champagne. The second memory is playing the drinking game, “Quarters” with a jug of Carlo Rossi [in high school].” I’m a flip cup guy myself!

Collect Call: I asked Greg if he collects anything. He said, “I have a collection of Native American rock tools (like mortars and pestles) that I’ve found through the years.”

Your Fly Is Down [Stream]: Fly fishing is a pastime that Greg enjoys most and wishes he could do more of–it’s also a hobby that I’ve found numerous winemakers enjoy.  Maybe it must be the craftsmanship of the equipment used; the handmade bamboo rod and the marveled precision of a high quality reel.  The stalk of the elusive prey (Little Nemo), basking within the shadowed edges of a river bank and the art of the line and fly placement.  OR, perhaps Greg and these other winemakers who enjoy the sport so much, are simply after a meal to pair with their newly released white wine! Regardless, I just made myself hungry.

I2I: I asked Greg what Washington wineries he looks up to, or at least who he sees eye-to-eye w ith. His response was, “I respect Mercer Estates (a newer winery here in Prosser), because their wines are a well-crafted expression of Washington State.” So, I called Mercer Estates, and they said, “Greg is our biggest customer, we think he has a [wine] shopping problem, but MAN is he good at the game Quarters!”

YODA: If Greg were Yoda he’d say: “To take more classes, if I had to do it over to further my knowledge, right after college, I would.  To get things right, before harvest and fermentation, you only have one shot. Focused on providing great value, we have always been.”

A Mouth Full: Desert Wind Winery, 2007 Ruah, Columbia Valley, Red Blend, $20 1675 cs.

48% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16%Cabernet Franc

Ruah is Desert Wind’s flagship wine and Greg’s favorite wine to make.  Greg believes it’s the ultimate way to showcase Washington’s best grapes. It’s a wine he says, “has really taken on a life of its own.” Ruah is an ancient Hebrew word for “wind, breath, or spirit,” which is fitting for the name of the winery.

I smelled this wine for longer than usual. It wasn’t so much because it was truly unique or life altering, it was just because it was quite nice. It smelled of coffee extracts and little cocoa nibs slathered over mahogany, with fennel pollen and baked red currant. Pleasantly and meditatively, I “chilled,” hovering over the aromas bleeding out my glass of Ruah. It was a nose from a wine that I could have walked away from, knowing full well, that I would have enjoyed my tasting encounter. BUT, I didn’t, so I had a taste! The taste of Ruah is what you’d hope for from a wine from Washington for $20.  The elements that assured me of its value came from the overall length, the quality of the tannins and the oak integration.   I enjoyed the drying elements—again the experience made me hungry!

Find this wine soon! Hopefully you’ll be grocery shopping, and when you do, please make sure you throw some extra meat in your cart for me…and to enjoy it with Ruah!

Contact Info:

Desert Wind Winery
2258 Wine Country Rd
Prosser, WA 99350
Phone: 509.786.7277

For an interview or to offer feedback, please contact me: dave@winomagazine.com

With that in mind, I’d like to share with you an inside look at the event from my perspective as one of the elected wine judges, and more specifically, what I found in the categories I tasted.  I’ll preface by telling you I make no official claims, I can ONLY to tell you which wines ultimately stood out to ME—whose names I learned AFTER turning in my score cards. There were also four judges per category, so my results alone will only contribute to the overall scoring of that particular category.

On day one, I tasted Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, for a total of 68 wines.  In terms of Pinot Gris, I found a lot of very high acid wines that over time really had me wondering what else they had going for them.  Also in the mix, however far less, were the fatter styled, tropical fruit driven, clumsy examples of Pinot Gris.  What I was looking for were those with the balance of both worlds. Where the acid did outshine the fruit, but had just enough sugar to keep me from staring down the cheese platter to my right.  After finding those, it was just a matter of which wines had more appealing nuances.  Oh, and I learned a nice little lesson in this process: If your Pinot Gris has tones of brown and smells like wood and strange notes of trash—don’t drink it! I tried to score that wine and was better off not—the problem is I revealed that wine to myself and will never buy a wine made from that producer again.  They were better off dumping the wine before it made it into bottle I assure you.

My Faves:

• Benton Lane 2008 Pinot Gris, OR
• Bishop Creek Cellars 2007 Pinot Gris, OR

In the field of Chardonnay, I prefer stainless steel Chardonnays to their counterpoint—the oaky over-the-top gruesomely dolloped “Land-O-Lakes” styled specimens.   However, I find that I often enjoy a well-balanced combination of the two, the on-the-fence versions, and the double-bubble bottlings. While tasting through the Chardonnay wines at Ray’s, I found that in this category my job was easy, because there were so many run-of-the-mill Chardonnays that I tasted.  What I was happy to see was that there weren’t many “cheap” versions being made like you see in other parts of the country, eghm. What I was looking for was quality fruit expression, not disguised by oak, but accentuated.  I was looking for a leaner, more focused style on the palate–not viscous and fat. In this grouping of Chardonnay I did however score my first ever zero, shame-shame, I know your name.

My Faves:

• Cave B Estate 2008 Sage Cliffe Chardonnay, WA
• Dusted Valley 2008 Old Vine Chardonnay, WA

On day two, I happily sat down in front of Pinot Noir and Red Blends for a total of 99 wines. I’ll inform you that I’m a sucker for the 2006 vintage of Pinot Noir in Oregon due to their typicity.  That being said, it was no surprise that my three top wines were from 2006.  While these wines had less structure and power, they were drinking well now, and their varietal expression was clear as day.  The 2006′s I tasted won’t outlast most of the good 2007′s, many of which are currently haunted by an under-ripe quality, but they will certainly deliver for your pop-and-pour events soon to come.

My Faves:

• Anne Amie 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, OR
• Stoller 2006 Dundee Pinot Noir, OR
• Pheasant Valley 2006 Reserve Hood River, OR
• Erath 2006 Prince Hill Willamette Valley, OR

What I like about Red Blends is that they allow a winemaker to craft a wine of balance.  Blending allows the winemaker to utilize an assemblage of varietals and integrate them into a final composition, playing off of certain grapes strengths and weaknesses.  It’s not as much about an expression of terroir, but rather the skill of the maker to create a blend of seamlessness. What I found throughout this tasting is that there are some truly great blends. What I also found is that there were many wines that taste like everyone else’s: muddled. In this category, I discovered that there must be a lot of good winery stories and/or price-points selling these numerous and ordinary fashioned wines.  I see nothing wrong with that. I was just looking for the wines that made a statement of a different kind.  I enjoyed the violets on occasion and the blue fruit.  I loved the wines with power and structure that carried a back-ended finesse and polish.  I learned that I preferred a well-made wine with easier drinkability over a wine that was hard-edged and tannic—don’t let that fool you.

My Faves:

• Lopez Island Vineyards Crawford Vineyard 2006
• Corvus Cellars 2007 Ruckus Red, WA
• College Cellars 2006 Presidents Blend, WA

All in all, this event was eye-opening, like all tasting events. Attending these types of events is a way we wine buyers, wine writers and the general public can learn about wineries and their wines, support what they like and refine their palate’s preference.  It’s a reminder that each passing vintage offers change, hopes of consistency and the welcomed stroke of luck.  Ray’s Boathouse in Seattle, Washington is a great supporter of Northwest Wine and its legacy.  They welcome all the contestants back next year and are always looking for newcomers! Cheers! –Dave

Every January, Ray’s Boathouse conducts an extensive Northwest wine competition. All grape-based winemakers from Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia are invited to submit their wines released in the previous year. Ray’s gathers local sommeliers, wine writers and wine experts to blind taste the entries and evaluate the wines based on flavor, texture, aroma and composition. Now in its 23rd year, this exciting competition has uncovered hidden gems from tiny up-and-coming wineries, as well as reaffirmed the well-deserved praise earned by established producers.

The top scoring wines are then artfully paired with a delicious menu created by Chef Peter and presented in our elegant waterfront banquet room with the winning winemakers in attendance. A fabulous event for food and wine lovers! $125.00 per guest, includes tax and gratuity. For reservations, please call (206) 789-6309.

Paul Golitzen of Quilceda Creek Winery

Think Locally, Act Globally: A short forty minute drive from Seattle gets you to the front door of Quilceda Creek Winery.  Paul says he’s “trying to make a wine, consistently, that can compete on a global scale and be second to none.” He credits much of Washington State’s wine success to the growing conditions and lack of maritime influence. I’d just like to credit the thirsty Washington wine consumer who day-in and day-out continues to support Washington wines success by drinking them!

S.O.L.: For those of you aspiring to make wine at the level of Paul Golitzen, I have some sad news for you:  If you didn’t start your career path at the age of seven like him (he helped his father in the cellar), it may be too late. Paul credits many past life experiences to his wine advancements, and here are three main contributers: a trip to France at age fifteen began his passion for wine; support and guidance from great mentors–his Great Uncle, Andre Tchelistcheff, his son Dimitri, (who makes wine for Jarvis in CA) and his father; and a “holy grail” moment in the company of a 1989 Haut Brion.

All Ears: These days in business, it’s easy to become just another drip in the bucket.  There are a few general business models that a winery can follow to stand out and meet their goals, depending on whether they choose to be the best, be unique or play it safe and do “what works.” Paul has some advice for the up-and-coming wannabe winemakers: “If you are going to enter the wine business, develop your palate with really great wine, bring something new to the table and stay focused on a few varietals.”  I’d personally suggest picking varietals other than Cabernet Sauvignon if you want to avoid the Quicida Creek’s competitive advantage.

Who’s Your Daddy?: Wine making has many rewards; for Paul the best is “when you finally nail a vintage blend and come up with a wine that you can drink throughout the evening and never loose intellectual interest.”  One of Paul’s greatest joys is the art of blending.

Guinness Gracious: I don’t know that this is a case for the book of records, but the 2002 and 2003 Quilceda Creek Cabernet were both scored 100 points by Peirre Rovani of the Wine Advocate in 2006—“the only red wine that he [Rovani] ever gave such an honor to,” Paul said. It was this achievement that Paul is most proud of.

5 Finger Discount: If you were to ever steal (hypothetically) a glass of wine from Paul Golitzin, odds would have it that you’d have the ability to sip on something nice.  Paul most frequently drinks and respects Leonetti, Woodward Canyon, Betz and Delille.  Cheers to that!

Seriously: At Quilceda Creek there is a philosophy: No Compromises.

A Mouth Full: Quiceda Creek, Palengat Vineyard 2006 $85 1025 cs.

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot

This is the first release of this wine and just the fourth occasion I’ve had a Quilceda Creek wine.  Paul said this wine makes him think of his mother, the vineyard is named after her, and reflects on her beauty as a person.

After an hour decant, I bellied up to the rim of my glass for an official whiff.  I smelled marbled, rich, malted dark fruit, restrained.  There were reminders of California cult wine aromatics like dark current brooding under a rich ripeness that was laced with cedar—a mild distraction was wafts of alcohol, however more or less, minimal.

A sip and I found the upfront fruit pure and polished. A swallow, revealed an evident grip from the sweet tannins, but a run-in once again with the alcohol.  Working through the wine a little longer revealed massive amounts of plum and violet. Some vanilla accented the encounter and my teeth were certainly marked by its color–bringing new meaning to “blue tooth.”

Although I enjoyed this beauty, in the end the alcohol tarnished my experience.  It was, however, obvious to me through the purity of the fruit and elegance, that this wine was made by an expert.  I’ll also add that this so-so encounter won’t keep me from trying to get on the Quilceda Creek mailing list, in my attempt to buy as much Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from them as I can afford!

In comparison to music: I feel as though this bottle’s like a good track, amongst a great album—and next year it will tour once again with a new sound, and I with my lighter in hand.

Quilceda Creek Vintners, Inc.
P.O. Box 1562
Snohomish, WA 98291-1562
(360) 568-2389

www.quilcedacreek.com

For an interview or to offer feedback, please contact me: dave@winomagazine.com