Palamà Arcangelo 2008 Salice Salentino

*Bottle #95: Palamà Arcangelo 2008 Salice Salentino, Puglia
*Price Tag: $15
*Running Tab: $1,280
*Retailer: None – gifted by my work hubby!

Winemaker Cosimo (aka Nini) Palamà made this wine in honor of his father, Arcangelo. Winemaker Nini Palamà’s family has been making small lot wines in the highly underrated southern heel of Italy, Puglia, for almost 75 years, rooting with his father.

Like most producers in Puglia back in the day, Palamà was pumping out bulk wine from the get-go in the small town of Salice Salentino, now a designated DOC region of Italy. Scattered with intermixing olive orchards and vines, homes and history were thrown in the midst, allowing families to thrive off the land.

Given this land and the fields of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera surrounding them, Arcangelo’s original production of bulk wine gained finesse enough to be enjoyed and distributed to restaurants in the area, acquiring positive publicity and praise.

The vineyards of Salice Salentino, in the southern region of Puglia called Salento, date back to the 6th century BC and consisted dominantly of the Negroamaro variety, uniquely standing out amongst other bold varietals of Italy with its rustic dark fruit and bitterness. Dark and bitter in both color and flavor, it was rightly so for the translation to mean “black bitter,” deriving from both Greek and Latin languages.

The grape is typically used in blends, like our friend Nini’s here. Pouring some 20% Malvasia Nera into the Negroamaro, Nini balances out the bitterness of the dominant varietal with vibrant and fruit-forward aromas.

Considering I couldn’t find Jack on this wine more than a couple planted token phrases (even on their own Web site, with the exception of an epic video), the actual winemaking technique of Nini’s is unclear. If I were to guess, I would think there is little to no oak used in the production of this traditional Salice Salentino blend, allowing the fruit to do all the talking.

The nose of the wine was definitely funky and bitter, true to its character. Sweet cherry, stewed plum, cola and an herbal tone are immediately noticeable. Spice of cinnamon, leafy tobacco and black tea really rounded out the non-fruit tones and created a unique aroma that is totally elemental for a wine from Puglia, in my experience. Dark and bizarrely sharp fruit but with rare seasoning shaken in.

Again, curiously sour fruit flavors of cranberry and fig mixed with tea leaf, the acid was easy and the tannins were minute yet bold. Seldom do I find a wine where the aromas translate over to the palate but Nini’s Arcangelo does just that. The wine tastes exactly how it smells.

Overall, Nini’s wine proved to be a bit of an experience. I think I’d like to try this wine again because I feel there are some questions left unanswered, just like how I wish there was just one more episode of LOST… I believe Salice Salentino’s are to be consumed at a younger age, but I’m oddly intrigued by you, Arcangelo, and want to give you some more bottle age. I guess that’s a way to sell a wine/TV show… Confuse them in to coming back, mwahaha!

Score: 6.5? I don’t know!