Bottleology – Dominio IV Winery with Patrick Reuter
May 5, 2010 by Dave Bender
The subconscious of the winemaking mind, aloud:
A fist full of dirt is not to be taken lightly in this world of wine; it is the essence of all that you help to harness. A face full of sun today helps to mother and nurture your offspring of tomorrow, from seeds to grapes and juice to bottles. The morning dew, an afternoon rain shower, the temperate night, the fog and the ocean, all rear the identities of your land and your fruit. Your role, and that of your equipment, is to what? Ask yourself, “Do I play the role of the interpreter?” Or “Need I become the messenger?” What’s the difference? Here is a message from a winemaker in Oregon with a rather holistic approach, who’s well aware of his role:
Now and Then: Patrick Reuter is the winemaker and co-owner of Dominio IV Winery in Mosier, Oregon. The winery began in 2002 and he has been working with fruit from Viognier, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo ever since. Patrick has learned about winemaking while working harvests in Chile, New Zealand, Napa, Burgundy, and of course Oregon. He’s also a graduate from UC Davis where he studied “terroir” while his wife simultaneously studied viticulture.
Art Imitates Life: I had asked Patrick what he enjoyed most about winemaking. Here’s what he had to say: “I love the full circle aspect and necessity to integrate into the process. It’s not so much about showing who you are through the wines, but rather losing the self through becoming a part of the wine.” He added, “Sometimes the only reason to do something is to see its beauty in the end. When you are done, you walk away feeling better than if you had not done that something.”
It’s All Happening: For some individuals, the path of making wine is paved for them by family decedents. For others, wine making desires are discovered through exposures to the product in any number of forms. For Patrick, it was working in the restaurant industry. He told me quite simply that,“life funneled me into it.”
Eye of the Beholder: The life of the winemaker is far from glorious. It’s a profession that requires commitment and its own unique vows. Patrick added, “It seems as though the hard way is the only way. I have learned that what you think is a mistake, may end up to be one of the greatest attributes to a wine. Not always…but you need to stay open to possibilities.” So… your saying that my children might NOT be delinquents!?!
Wine-Not: In his world unrelated to wine, Patrick enjoys work in metal sculpture and furniture. He likes to build, loves to play soccer, enjoys writing poetry, and he also paints. “I think meditation is the best way to better the self,” he says. Patrick is also learning how to play the guitar and comments,“I’m not very talented, but it’s good to learn something that you find difficult.” If he wasn’t making wine, Patrick could picture himself running an eco fish farm in Southern Spain.
Born Again: I like to compare the “epiphany moments” in wine, to the feeling of would-be rebirth. Blindsided, the moment creeps in and settles as you work to comprehend the soon to be sensory overload. Recognizing that moment the first time, often catches you off-guard. Perhaps all too familiar, your endorphins are already mimicking a climactic sexual experience. Any other day, any other moment and it may have never tasted so good. Sometimes a wine’s drinking window is extremely narrow–then I remember the quote: “There are no great wines, only great bottles.” It’s these moments that keep us wine nerds excited about the world of wine.
For Paul, his first epiphany moment was in 1992 with his wife. It was as he said, “An aged Bordeaux in that we took hours to drink and love.”
Breathe Easy: One of Patrick passions is breathing. He stated, “Learn to breathe correctly. Everything else follows that.” A decanter can also assist you in this process.
R.E.S.P.E.C.T.: In terms of respect, Patrick appreciates wineries that grow at least a portion of their own fruit, and ones that don’t go for an “internationally port styled” red table wine. “I like Alsatian wines, just ripe Washington wines, and lesser known Iberian and Italian varietals. I drink a lot of Oregon Pinots which I enjoy, but I don’t like dissections fraught with comparisons.”
The Message: “Come taste what comes naturally. We want to connect people to the land and the experience of the vineyard.” –Patrick Reuter, Winemaker, Messenger
A Mouth Full: 2006 Tempranillo “Sketches of Spain”, Columbia Gorge $25, 250 Cases
According to Patrick, this is just when Tempranillo starts to take off, about four years after its vintage. He mentioned that it reveals the bright fruit qualities of Tempranillo and offers a sense of the land.
Overall, I found this Tempranillo to be adequate and fairly priced. I found this wine to be laced firmly in oak, followed by tart red fruit character and concluding with a medium plus dusty tannin structure. Over-analysis of this wine I feel isn’t necessary; it’s a “less is more” kind of wine. Clearly this wine has the ability to age further with regard to its structural elements. I’m curious as to how well the fruit will hold up over the next 3-5 years….only one way to find out!
I believe that Tempranillo will do well in both the hot climates of Oregon and Eastern Washington. I recommend you try Dominio IV and others in a side by side comparison, and follow the grape’s Northwest evolution.
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