WINO Match-Maker: Branzino and Vino

Chester Gerl and Chris Lara Bring You the Perfect Pair

By Julien Perry

“What wine goes with this dish?” It’s a question WINO wants to help you answer by tapping into the wine libraries of those who know best. In this issue, chef Chester Gerl of Matt’s in the Market teams up with his wine director, Chris Lara, to bring you a knock-out dish with wines to match. From the bargain wine to the splurge, we’ve got you covered.

Roasted Branzino with Manila Clams, Spanish Chorizo, Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes and Purple Tomatoes

This recipe has all the bright colors of spring, but is perfect for fall. Chef Chester Gerl took inspiration from Pike Place Market to create this dish, which he recently presented at the James Beard House in NYC. Almost everything in this recipe was purchased from the Market—from the signature spice blend courtesy of Market Spice, to the branzino and clams. The tomatillos, however, are from Chester’s personal garden. The apple-sweet fruit will be gone by the first frost, but can be found in most supermarkets year-round.

Yield: 4 portions

Ingredients:
4 ea. ¾ lb. Branzino
40 ea. Manila clams
12 oz. Spanish chorizo, we use Palacios brand
12 oz. Heirloom cherry tomatoes quartered
4 oz. Purple tomatillos also quartered, ripe green tomatillos will work
2 oz. Sliced shallots
2 TBS Italian parsley
1 TBS Minced chives
4 sprigs Cuban oregano, or substitute with regular oregano
4 c. Cava or shell or pork stock
4 TBS Spanish extra virgin olive oil (we use Merula)
2 TBS Lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

Method:
Place the 4 branzino into 4 sauté pans, season with salt, and use 2 of the tablespoons of olive oil to coat the fish. Place in the oven at 400 degrees for about 10 minutes until the skin becomes crisp and the flesh is firm.

In a separate pot start to sauté the Spanish chorizo with the shallots for 1 minute, add the manila clams and sauté for another 20-30 seconds. Add cava and steam the clams, as the clams start to open add the 2 tablespoons of lemon juice (if you want to make it more acidic you can add more), tomatoes, tomatillos and herbs. Season with salt and pepper and finish the broth with the extra virgin olive oil.

For plating:
Lay the 4 branzino in 4 separate bowls and evenly ladle the broth. Place 10 clams in each bowl and finish with the rest of the ingredients.

A Perfect Pairing

Wine Director Chris Lara’s wine recommendations: 3 wines, 3 price points.

What: áMaurice 2008 Viognier, Columbia Valley
Winery Locale: Walla Walla
Owners: Schafer Family
Winemaker: Anna Schafer
Wholesale Cost: 17.50

“There’s a nice floral element to the Viognier without being to over-the-top that really works nicely with this dish.”

What: LIOCO 2007 Pinot Noir, Carneros
Winery Locale: Sonoma
Owners: Matt Licklider and Kevin O’Connor
Winemaker: Kevin Kelley
Wholesale Cost: $28.00

“It’s a fantastic Pinot Noir. Not too much depth; it goes really nicely with the fish, especially with the sausage.”

What: López de Heredia 1981 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanc, Rioja
Winery Locale: Haro, Rioja
Owners: Heredia Family
Wholesale Cost: $75.00

“There’s a lot of Sherry-esque notes to it, a lot of apples and nuts and a slight floral. And there’s a beautiful amount of acidity which is goes well with the clams and sausage.”