Pappas Wine Co. 2008 Pinot Blanc

*Bottle #84: Pappas Wine Co. 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc
*Price Tag: $16
*Running Tab: $1,161
*Retailer: Sixth Avenue Wine Seller, Pacific Place, Seattle

From what I’ve been told, husband and wife operated-companies can be the best of times and the worst of times. I would think the path to doom comes down to the fact that you take your work home with you and take your home to work with you.

However, when it comes to any type of relationship, be it with your business or soul mate, it all about the effort put forth that makes it a success.

Likewise, when husband and wife duo, Stewart Boedecker and Athena Pappas, couldn’t come together on winemaking styles, they did what any stubborn individual would do – go their own way and try to kick more ass than your opponent, er, partner, with an outcome of two critically-acclaimed styles. And that’s just about their Pinot Noirs.

The couple are the co-owners of Boedecker Cellars, a small lot Portland-based winery, born in 2003. Their first production debate was over blending the different barrels of Pinot for their inaugural release, lasting three weeks and resulting in both individually blending what they thought best by keeping true to their personal palates. Ever since, they blind taste their Pinot barrels and make their separate blends accordingly.

The Athena wines tend to lean toward the bigger, bolder and more structured side to contrast Stewart’s softer, more acidic and aromatic Pinots.

Now what about their genetically mutated sister wines? That’s right, Pinot Noir’s borderline X-Men counterpart is Pinot Blanc, a mutation of Pinot Noir due to its unstable state that causes the vine to spot a few canes growing white, Pinot Blanc, grapes.

Yes, Pinot Blanc is a freak.

Like most freaks of nature, Pinot Blanc is subtle, tends to play second (or third) fiddle while in blends with bolder varietals and has some serious zing to it (due to high levels of acidity).

And like Pinot Blanc being a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir, the Boedecker’s did the same with their second, “value” label – Pappas Wine Co. A side branch of their original idea, this time with Athena’s maiden name, reflecting on an easily, varietally correct approach – mutually decided it seems.

With a mere 170 cases made, the 2008 Pinot Blanc is sold out at the winery. My above mentioned retailer has a few bottles and I’m guessing so does their distributor. Always searching for the loopholes, my friends, always.

And unlike my above description, this Pinot Blanc is a wake-up call to all those who thought she was the red-headed stepsister of Pinot Noir. She is brisk, bright, feisty and fired up. This ain’t no Sunday sipper, this is booze-infused lemonade with a vengeance.

The nose is fresh and full of lemon rind and fresh spring flowers, but characteristically, not overly aromatic yet promising some substance.

The palate is beaming with grapefruit, citrus, orange peel and starfruit. Rifling acidity balances out the fruit’s intensity starting from the mid-palate all the way after the juice has gone down your throat. The wine enters soft, builds body halfway through and finishes with a fizzling bang.

Talk about a few things that have beat the odds. You’ve got to be aware of the underdog/married co-owners/value label/red-headed stepsister.

Score: 9.