Bastille Café & Bar

New Ballard restaurant is off to a good start

By Julien Perry

Bastille Café & Bar
5307 Ballard Ave NW
Seattle, WA 98107
206.453.5014
www.bastilleseattle.com

I thought for sure I would hate Bastille. The months of buzz preceding its June 29th opening had hit fever pitch and I was convinced my expectations would be dashed. I even made my first trip to the Ballard café on Bastille Day to ensure I would be thoroughly disappointed. But, a funny thing happened—I had an enjoyable time.

Bastille Café and Bar is more than just food and drink; it’s a stunningly beautiful education in vintage craftsmanship, dressed in white tiles, espresso-colored woodwork and antique fixtures that are both classic and chic in that Restoration Hardware-meets-Paris-train-station kind of way. Owner Deming Maclise, of Caffe Fiore, and his business partner did a fantastic job of turning the old metal works and steel shop into a virtual Parisian wonderland of salvaged goodness; an illuminated Paris Metro clock, Parisian street lamps, and reproduced oil paintings are just some of the found objects adorning the dining room and bars. That’s right, bars. Not only is there a 42-foot zinc-top near the entry, there’s also a “Back Bar” which has a separate entrance and offers a late night menu until 1 a.m. Outside, there’s a heated patio and a 23-hundred square-foot rooftop garden sprouting edibles like arugula, chervil, tarragon and six types of lettuce.

But before I get to all of the wonderful dishes that executive chef Shannon Galusha creates with those skyline fixins’, I need to address the proverbial kinks that still need to be worked out at this neighborhood newbie. I realize finding stellar staff is a challenge for many restaurateurs, even the seasoned pros, which is why even talking about service during the first two weeks of a new restaurant should be taken as the early observation in which it’s intended. All three of my visits resulted in waitstaff who were unfamiliar with the menu, inattentive, and seemingly overwhelmed with the breakneck pace of service. Expedition was also very noticeable for this hungry gal who, on one occasion, waited upwards of forty minutes for a couple of small plates to arrive without so much as bread and butter to keep her satiated.

The fact that these few blunders do nothing to overshadow the food, however, speaks highly of chef Galusha’s talents. The former Veil hash slinger has created a menu that is a veritable snapshot of popular Parisian café dishes, mingled with influences from the South of France, Morocco, and North Africa. Think tender grilled octopus with harissa ($12) and a very satisfying, oversized falafel with goat’s milk yoghurt and tahini wrapped in lavash ($8).

On a more traditional note, a delicate poached egg on toast ($8) came swathed in a succulent beef-based sauce surrounded by a generous heaping of roasted crimini mushrooms, and the duck leg confit ($11) sprang from a pool of French lentils, bacon and Jerez sherry vinegar. The petite plate pair was only outdone by the rotisserie half chicken ($17). The wondrous buttery bird was conveniently quartered, served nestled atop grilled onions and fingerling potatoes with a side of Dijon jus and a lingering hit of thyme.

Yes, Bastille has a few snags to maneuver, but just like the salvaged items that drape its interior, the café just needs some polishing.