Round Table: Walla Walla, Pt. 1

For this session of the Round Table, we traveled to Walla Walla like crusaders and hauled back about three cases of spoils from that land of milk and honey. By far the largest Round Table we’ve done to date, we had to enlist the help of a few more fellow winos.

Yashar Shayan, Erik Seigelbaum and David Bender from the NeoSommes of Seattle joined us to taste through the wines, along with Darin Williams and Seth Furman of Small Lot Co-Op, Dave Egan from Vino Verité, and Jameson Fink of QFC. Peter Moore offered up the mezzanine of Poco Wine Room along with his stemware, palate cleansers and spit buckets, and his amazing staff made the daunting task at hand easy-peasy—Peter, of course, joined us in the tasting, too. While we were all busy sipping, spitting, and speculating, the incomparable Lisa Basher took studios notes—no easy task among a large table of yammering winos. To all that participated, a huge thank-you.

The following is the first installment of the Walla Walla Round Table. Stay tuned, as more will follow.

Tamarack Cellars
2007 Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$18

A veritable study in the American Chardonnay, this wine offers everything consumers have come to expect in a Chard, and then some. Showing oak with almond and vanilla, this Chard goes beyond with aromas you might find in the funky little teahouses that are growing in popularity: earthy, woodsy tea steeped an hour ago, finishing with a touch of citris. While a little hot, it’ll still have you longing for the three o’clock break, complete will miniature sandwiches.

Five Star Cellars
2008 “Kynzie” Rosé of Sangiovese
Walla Walla Valley
$20

With 14.8% alcohol and acidity to match, this big boy needs a cold shower. Surprisingly well integrated, this rosé doesn’t register as super hot, but instead greets you with dry grasses and mild strawberries, with a tiny bit of that mushroomy funkiness so typical of Sangio. Guys, pour yourself a glass of this rosé at your next backyard barbecue, and then laugh at the pansies drinking Bud Lite.

A Bottle for the Road: Tour de Col Solare a la Red Mountain, Part 1

I woke up at 5:50 in the AM to go to Red Mountain. In the AM! I hardly function around 9 before two cups of coffee. Dark roast.

Arriving at the airport 12 minutes late (I HATE being late), I was still the first of five writers shipping out to Pasco from SeaTac courtesy of Ste. Michelle Estates to visit the Red Mountain AVA and Col Solare, one of the premium brands that falls into line with the Ste. Michelle Estates entourage. We flew into Pasco, home of the mighty Tri-Cities Airport, and shuttled out to the land of the vine. Passing familiar names along the way and many a’taco trucks we only left alone since it was 8:30, we pulled up the gravel way of Antinori Road, the route to the elusive sundial that is Col Solare Winery.

First to greet us in the 90+ degree heat before noon was winemaker Marcus Notaro, who looks strangely like four guys I’ve dated and gave us the low-down on the operation that is Col Solare.

The winery – or I should say wine, since they produce only one blend that is sold to the public – is a partnership between Tuscan wine powerhouse Marchesi Antinori and Chateau Ste. Michelle. Col Solare translation: “Shining Hill” – which is also the name of the side label that they only sell at the winery.

For the Love of Port @ the Corson Building, Georgetown

I’m told that Wednesday July 29^th was the hottest day ever in Seattle at 102^o F; apparently the hottest day in Seattle since at least 1891.  What better way to spend such a day than to sit down to a port tasting in Georgetown?  About 15 of us gathered at The Corson Building with Seattle’s authority on Ports and fortified wines to taste through ten exquisite Ports; they are as follows:

10 year Tawny

Quinta Do Infantado & C.N. Kopke

Infantado is a single quinta (single vineyard) Port house.  Compared to the Kopke, I found this 10-year to be lighter in weight, with brighter and fruitier characteristics.  It was also a bit sweet, thought showed a bit hotter than the Kopke.

The Kopke I found to be heavier with darker flavors of chocolate and caramel accompanied by hints of brine, barnyard, and hay.

20 year Tawny

Graham’s & C.N. Kopke

The Graham’s we served a bit chilled since it was such a hot day.  It was refreshing with nice peachy stone-fruit characteristics, and opened up nicely as it warmed up.

The Kopke by comparison, again, showed darker, richer.  The extra ten years also have made it more approachable than the Kopke 10-year.

1968 Colheita

C.N. Kopke & Quevedo

Here I found the Quevedo to be really interesting.  It was really earthy and mossy; I’ve never had such an earthy Port.

2000 Vintage & Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)

Quinta Do Infantado Vintage & Quinta Do Infantado LBV

Here the LBV had lots more concentrated and raisinated fruits; while the VP, I felt, held onto a fresher fruit quality due its having spent less time in oak and more in bottle.

Vintage Port (VP)

Dow’s 1985 & Quevedo 2007 Barrel Sample

The Dow’s ’85 might just have been my favorite, with subtle elegant qualities of quince and lightly roasted nuts.  Complex, but such finesse!

It was awesome to have experienced such a fresh port in its infancy.  The flavor profile was virtually identical to what I expect from a regular Douro table wine (non fortified), but with more sugar and alcohol.  It showed a concentration and complexity of fruits that only the Douro could produce; it’s amazing to think that this wine will age into a subtle, rustic, rich Vintage Port in a few decades.

I can’t end without discussing the venue!  This was my first time at The Corson Building, and I was IMPRESSED.  A quaint home built in 1910, the owner of the restaurant lives upstairs while the main floor has been converted into a restaurant and the yard into a garden with chicken coop and everything (in Georgetown? how cool is that?).  Big thanks to Marc Papineau and the Corson Building for hosting us; it was truly an idyllic location.  Oscar Quevedo said upon arrival that it reminded him of the rustic, early century buildings that he’s accustomed to in Portugal!

Primitivo by Senoj

Do you like Zinfandel? How about Primitivo?

In 1967, professor Austin Goheen of UC Davis visited Italy and sucked down the Primitivo. He thought it tasted just like Zinfandel. After more speculation, and a variety of tests, Dr. Wade Wolfe (now of Thurston Wolf Winery), proved in 1975 that Zin and Primo have identical isozyme fingerprints. They’re genetic twins.

Makes you curious, doesn’t it? (And thirsty?)

On Saturday, August 29, Senoj Estates will be previewing their new Primitivo from noon to 5:00 in their tasting room in Woodinville. If you like it, you can reserve your bottles for just 15 bones, which is 25% off the retail price–guaranteeing that you’ll get your share when the wine is released. Wine club members will get an additional 5% off.

Senoj describes their wine as:

From Coyote Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, our Primitivo is a bold and boisterous wine, loud and proud. The Primitivo provides blackberry and pepper highlights on the nose, while a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon gives rise to a smooth middle palate and tasteful tannic finish. This wine is deep, drinkable, and delicious. Enjoy it with friends and family.

Head out to Woodinville, and see for yourself.

Senoj Estates
19495 144th AVE NE
Woodinville, WA 98072
www.senojestates.com

Domaine de Ferrand Côtes du Rhône 2006 Cuvée Antique

*Bottle #73: Domaine de Ferrand Côtes du Rhône 2006 Cuvée Antique Vielles Vignes
*Price Tag: $18
*Running Tab: $1,021

Once upon a time, when money was good and I was young and frivolous in my spending habits, I was in a wine club. Yes, but a mere two months ago, I was receiving several wines a month, consuming life’s pleasures in gluttony and hedonism, taking for granted every drop of that glorious purple stuff courtesy of Jack Cellars‘ and for under $20.

Now that times are rough (donations can be routed via WINO Magazine…) and the wine purchases have become a bit more sparse (I accept cash), tapping into my once-semi-impressive wine cellar is becoming a regular occasion.

Jack’s Wine Club delivered vast ranges of bottles, from duds to hidden gems, always red and always around 18 big ones. Predictable, easy and model Tuesday night bottles, I was able to scrape a treasure from the diminishing pile: the 2006 Cuvee Antique from Domaine de Ferrand in Côtes du Rhône.

Domaine de Ferrand, an estate winery in the Southern Rhone Valley, plays Côtes du Rhône by the book and as close to the regulated definitions as possible.

Dulces Latin Bistro

Redefining Authenticity

By Erin Thomas

Dulces Latin Bistro
1430 34th Ave
Seattle, WA 98122-3334
(206) 322-5453
www.dulceslatinbistro.com

Finding authentic Latin fare is a daunting task in Seattle. So much so that the choices are to chance the taco truck on the Shoreline border or squeeze into the 500-square-foot restaurant that is La Carta de Oaxaca
with the rest of the Ballard hipsters.

According to the most recent American Community Survey, gathering census from 2005-2007, the city’s population is only 6.2 percent Hispanic or Latino, of any race. That being said, Seattle is not the most “authentically” Latin city north of the border.

But darn that statement if it will keep a few good souls from offering the real McCoy of legitimate Latin flavor in the Seattle food scene.

Bastille Café & Bar

New Ballard restaurant is off to a good start

By Julien Perry

Bastille Café & Bar
5307 Ballard Ave NW
Seattle, WA 98107
206.453.5014
www.bastilleseattle.com

I thought for sure I would hate Bastille. The months of buzz preceding its June 29th opening had hit fever pitch and I was convinced my expectations would be dashed. I even made my first trip to the Ballard café on Bastille Day to ensure I would be thoroughly disappointed. But, a funny thing happened—I had an enjoyable time.

Thoughts on Men, Rosé and Volunteering at Events

By Christopher Chan

Vintus Maximus : Can Cool Guys Drink Pink?

Ahhh…summer in Washington! There are very few places on earth as wonderful as the Pacific Northwest in the summer. Albeit, we suffer through a gray whale of a rainy seasonal affective disorder to get here, but when it’s great, wow is it great! Life is even better when you can select a fantastic and fun wine for the weather—a crisp dry or off-dry white or rosé is absolutely perfect for a hot sunny day in the back yard or on the deck.

What’s that? This bad-boy wine guy who chews on 1st growths and cult wines with beefy tannins and new oak cannot be seen drinking a pink “girly” wine, or he can’t stand sweet? Hold on tough guy. First, let’s get it right; Pink ? Sweet, so chill. In fact, chill is the thrill during these dog days of summer. But Chris, the wine has no oak! Oak’s a joke on hot days as it just weighs down the wine and your palate. Trust me on this one; go find a light, bright white like Oregon Pinot Gris or Washington Viognier, chill it and swill it. Even better, think pink and venture out on the color wheel of flavor with Rosados or Rosatos, depending on the heritage of the grape as in Italy or Spain. Not every wine has to be an introspective breakdown of the structure, aroma and finish. Summertime is for fresh, cold, fruity wines, so put down the decanter and find me an ice-bucket!

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Walla Walla: 21 Reasons to Visit This Year

Last year, we asked celebrity wine reviewer Gary Vaynerchuk what he thought of Washington wines, and in his reply, he told us that Walla Walla, Washington was the most exciting thing happening to wine in the country. It’s true that Walla Walla has cultivated a reputation for wine, leading some to speculate that it’s quickly becoming the Napa Valley of Washington State, but could Walla Walla live up to its reputation? To find out, we headed deep into Walla Walla wine country, exploring like Lewis and Clark, but with teeth just a few shades more purple.

Walla Walla is not what you would expect from an agrarian community. The architecture alone is a huge surprise as you come driving in through the golden wheat fields, a time capsule of perfectly preserved brick and mortar reminiscing days gone by.

In 1805, the Lewis and Clark expedition trampled through the Northwestern edge of Walla Walla, and then came back through the heart of Walla Walla Valley on their way home. Fur traders established a thriving trading post there, and later, in 1836, Marcus and Narcissa Whitman traipsed up the Oregon Trail and established a mission among the Cayuse Indians, which lasted for eleven years before the Cayuse attacked the mission killing the Whitmans and others.

During the gold rush, Walla Walla became a vibrant urban center, establishing the first commercial bank in the

Palacios Remondo 2005 La Montessa Rioja

*Bottle #72: Palacios Remondo 2005 La Montessa Rioja
*Price Tag: $18
*Running Tab: $1,003

The romantically epic adventure movie and fond memory of my adolescence, “The Princess Bride,” has many fantastical and fanatical characters, my favorite being Inigo Montoya, the skilled swordsman who is out to avenge his father’s death.

His catchphrase and soul purpose in the movie was to say: “Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father. Prepare to die.” In the same voice, in the same tone, every time.

Rightly so, when reading this week’s bottle selection, I kept thinking: “Hello. My name is Palacios Remondo La Montesa. You killed my father. Prepare to die.”

Yes, it’s a little bit longer of a name, might be a Spanish wine over being a Spanish pirate and borderline stereotyping but it still manages to roll off the tongue as efficiently as the original phrase.

And roll off the tongue and into my belly it did. This juice was good!

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