Darby 2008 “Le Deuce” Columbia Valley

*Bottle $64: Darby 2008 “Le Deuce” Columbia Valley Viognier-Roussanne Blend
*Price Tag: $20
*Running Tab: $869

I have a super-geeky wine crush.

He and his wine are like the starting line-up for the high school football team. I’m the nerdy Poindexter-four-eyes band girl (flute, thank you) who stares at him from the bleachers as he makes out with his hot, cheerleader girlfriend (okay, wife…) and high-fives his teammates (neighboring uber-successful winemakers). Every Wine Spectator rating, every Dr. Jay Miller nod and Seattle Times reference is another touchdown. He’s so talented…

Yes, Seattlelites and Woodinville-wine-stalkers like myself, he is Darby English and the man makes a wine named after himself. Unique and clever, his name only characterizes his unique and clever wines – innovative and vibrant, very “up-and-coming” in this wine district that is getting bigger and bigger buzz with equally bigger and bigger wines.

Darby and his cheerleader – I mean – absolutely adorable wife head up their small lot, small production winery in North Woodinville, starting with the 2005 vintage. With a 1500-ish case production, Darby searches for the “low-intervention” vineyards to keep it au natural and pure.

He’s beautiful AND eco-friendly… Sigh.

And likewise are his wines, I’ve had a couple to date (Aunt Lee Syrah, named after his late aunt is delicious), are beautiful and eco-friendly.

This week I settled on Darby’s 2008 “Le Deuce,” a blend of 52% Viognier and 48% Roussanne – two Rhone varietals I adore. Both big and vivacious, lush and known for acidity, structure and tropical fruit, I have rarely had a wine consisting of either varietal that I don’t like. But I like to drink wine…

The nose had the natural buttery aroma that Roussanne tends to put out with a slight indication of oak, but if any, it was far from overbearing. Tropical fruits tones showcasing lots of pineapple, the acid and alcohol was slyly seeping out but again, it was far from overbearing. After the wine warmed up a bit, grapefruit, apricot and lavender gracefully shined through like Darby’s football state trophy…

The palate is like drunk pineapple juice. Darby, the star quarterback, has spiked the punch at the dance! He’s so rebellious and dreamy… Oh wait, this actually is wine! Accurately balanced acidity allows the juice to have a full-body mouth feel with a sweet attack and an acidic finish that feels like when you have butterflies in your stomach. Oh wait, that’s just how I feel about Darby… Sigh.

I think what’s impeccable (other than Darby’s eyes) is the consistency of the acid in this wine. I find that when Roussanne-blended wines warm up, the automatic reaction of flabbiness can be dominate in the finish. But this one, this “Le Deuce” is a combo well blended, vibrant and well-balanced.

My guess that the key to this wine’s success is that he co-fermented the varietals immediately after the crush. He’s so smart… Sigh.

I’ve finished drooling and finished the wine and have actually had it twice now since first tasting it. That outta tell you something… No, I’m not pathetically in love with him. It’s just for theatrics! … Right?

Score: 9.