Washington vs. The World: Dolcetto

Dolcetto is a varietal that’s not on very many people’s radar, especially in Washington. It’s a black wine grape primarily grown in the Piedmont region of Italy. Even though it’s typically a dry wine, the name means “little sweet one,” and they tend to be tannic, fruit-driven wines.

For the first round of Washington vs. The World, two Dolcettos face off. In this corner wearing a white label with a red tree on it, weighing in at 14.0% alcohol: 2006 Cantina del Pino Dolcetto d’Alba from the Piedmont region of Italy. And in this corner, the challenger wearing a white label with a river and bridge, weighing in at 14.2% alcohol: 2007 Kyra Dolcetto from Wahluke Slope.

The Cantino Del Pino wine was a strong example of a nice, stable Dolcetto. With lots of tannin and gusto, it had rich fruit, complexity and a long finish. This was a wine with a lot of heft, and it really showcased the essence of grapes, like a classically trained boxer with fancy footwork. The Kyra rendition showcased all of the characteristics of Dolcetto. With lots of fruit balanced with acidity, it’s dangerously easy to drink. Direct, straightforward, the Kyra was born with a classic Dolcetto body, but trained in the school of hard knocks, and it can hold its own.

The whole bout demonstrated how a wine varietal has a distinct profile—flavor and body—and both of these wines matched that archetype and how. It’s especially interesting to note that they’ve been growing Dolcetto in Piedmont since the late 1500s, 400 years longer than any wine in Washington.

So, who is the winner? Try these wines out for yourself. They’re available at select QFC grocery stores, including the Broadway Market store in Seattle. Once you’ve tried them, add your comments below. May the best wine win.