Cheapskate – August ’08

By Charles Armstrong

This month we tackle an interesting group of cheap wines, insofar as their cheapness is a little surprising. Seriously, with most of these guys you could have told me that they run over twenty bucks a bottle and I probably would just chalk up my then barely underwhelming tasting to an unsophisticated palette. Luckily, they don’t cost that much and they run the gamut of appropriateness-for-context drinking. The great thing about this kind of wine is that you could pass these puppies off at schmoozy dinner with the folks, or getting drunk with your frat bros. I call that versatile. I also call that value.

In an effort to promote American Xenophobia, each wine this month finds its partner in a European nation.

Hogue 2006 Columbia Valley Shiraz
The Hogue Cellars, Ltd., Prosser, WA
$11.00

If you’ve read this column before you know about the weasel words I tend to use when discussing Shiraz/Syrrah. I typically find the wine about as charming as a drunk Gorilla. But the Hogue Shiraz, well that’s a different story. There’s plenty of acid and tanin, but those flavors give way after the nose to reveal some subtle and unexpected dark fruit notes, especially on the finish. The result is wine that’s well balanced and, for lack of a better word, accessible; if you drink Shiraz regularly, you may find the Hogue a bit watered down, but for the rest of the us it’s a nice option when we’d otherwise reach for a bland Merlot. Drink it with a dark meat or maybe even some spicy curry.

Equivalent European Country: Hungary
This is a wine on the doorway to the exotic, bolder flavors that novice wine drinkers/American travelers usually tend to shy away from. If you’ve grown bored with the “travel” experience of museums in Paris and boring Pinot Noirs, a few glasses of this wine may entice you to get out and really try something new and/or see parts of Eastern Europe.

Columbia Crest 2003 Columbia Valley Chardonnay
Columbia Crest Winery, Paterson, WA
$9.00

The Columbia Crest is surprisingly fruity by Chardonnay standards, though bold enough so as not to be easily overpowered. This would make it an interesting choice with a fish or light pasta dish. The flavors really evolve over the course of a sip, moving from fruity on the nose through some subtle green notes to a bright, acidic finish with minimal aftertaste. If you find yourself at someone’s house drinking a more traditional, buttery Chardonnay, I would recommend a name drop to sound like you know what you’re talking about. “This is good, but I prefer the Columbia Crest, it’s far less buttery but with wonderful fruit notes.” Do yourself a favor and swish the glass around when you say that.

Equivalent European Country: Spain
While obviously a part of the well known grape varieties, this wine feels surprisingly vibrant, partially because of it’s lack of involvement in the most significant conflict of the 20th century and unique flavor combinations.

Stonecap 2004 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Goose Ridge Vineyards, Kennewick, WA
$15.00

For most, Cabernet has an almost utilitarian function as “steak accompanier”. Now, Stonecap doesn’t that mold entirely, but Cabernet drinkers will be surprised when they first crack the bottle. The wine has some surprising greens and earth flavors, particularly up front, while tannins are muted, save on the swallow. There’s also some interesting dark fruit kick early on, but this gives way to a subtle tart flavor as the wine swishes around your taste buds. Pair it with (you guessed it) a steak, but be prepared to pay more respect than you typically would with your table wine.

Equivalent European Country: Switzerland
Simultaneously rugged and urbane, sophisticated but with bold tastes, and never sacrificing straightforward utility, this wine is an experience both unique and familiar. In many ways your typical wine, but with shades of culture and flavor all it’s own. Expect a sort of functional creativity keen on precision. Additionally, this wine’s flavor neutrality will keep it relatively safe from harsh criticism of dinner guests or global conflict.

Covey Run 2006 Columbia Valley Fumé Blanc
Covey Run Winery, Woodinville, WA
$7.00

My understanding is that a Fumé Blanc is exactly the same as a Sauvignon Blanc. Same grape, same wine, same same, slightly different name. It stands to reason that the more uncommon “Fumé” was used in place of “Sauvignon” so as to distinguish this wine from the others next to it on the shelf, because the taste alone certainly wouldn’t do the trick. It’s a clean, fruity wine with a hint of greens and virtually no tannins, but the flavors evaporate as soon as you swallow and you may need several sips before your mouth even realizes you’ve tasted it. The flavors are all in there, but it’s light and brisk. Drink it chilled, on its own, out doors. Pairing it with a fruit-based salad may not be a bad idea, but the wine would do more to enhance the salad’s flavors than vice versa.

Equivalent European Country: Portugal
It’s nice and friendly and interesting, but easily overshadowed by nearby Spain or a Chardonnay. Returning from a long trek through the supermarket, you may have forgotten about this wine until you look back through your travel journal, photographs, and QFC receipt.

Sagelands 2006 Columbia Valley Merlot
Sagelands Vineyard, Walla Walla, WA
$12.00

One of the darker Merlots I’ve ever tasted, the Sagelands 2006 comes across bold and mysterious. Tannin and earth flavors are pronounced throughout, with strong acid on the swallow while dark berry flavors bounce in and out. You definitely notice the alcohol, but in an interesting, mellow, whiskey-like sense. That may be because of the earth and oak tones reminiscent of scotch, but more likely it’s that the wine is strong in addition to being well balanced, rather than being simply one or the other. This wine would be perfect for a large dinner with a variety of dishes; eat your fill, drink it down, then call a cab for your guests.

Equivalent European Country: Scotland
Dark, brooding, paradoxically refined and uncouth, and a little boozy by reputation, for adventurous Winos this bottle makes for a more interesting travel destination than its neighbor, the Cabernet [England]. Just be forewarned that without the right pairings, the flavors may be too strong for you to understand what anyone is saying.