Bottleology – Woodinville Wine Cellars with Sean Boyd

Winemaker Sean Boyd of Woodinville Wine Cellars

During the month of September and through most of October, the grapes of Central Washington reach the end of their maturation process. These grapes are then politely plucked from the vine and taken away to serve a new, more noble, purpose: WINE! Usually under the cover of darkness, blanketed by cooler evening hours preserving freshness, this fruit is transported by truck to the many satellite wineries throughout the state. Awaiting these shipments at the wee hours of the morning, are the men and women who make up the Washington State wine industry. Ladies and gents, please take a bow, we love you!

For Sean Boyd, winemaker and owner of Woodinville Wine Cellars, it was watching a truckload of Sauvignon Blanc grapes show up to the winery that has been one of the most memorable experiences for him as a winemaker—it was his “this is the job for me” moment.

More That Meets The Eye: Sean Boyd isn’t just another wine making descendent from California who moved to Washington State to start fresh.  Sean is very well traveled. He’s also made wine in four different countries, loves the wine from Washington State and believes in the potential of this wine region. He gained instant cool points when he told me that his father, Gerald Boyd, was the original editor of Wine Spectator.

Crafts-Man (ship): In the years leading up to making wine (professionally), Sean perfected his craft in many ways.  “I started in 1986 at Liquor Barns in California. I worked in wineries as a winemaking apprentice in four countries and spent many hours fine tuning techniques. I have worked harvest, sold wine at retail, and I have been making wine since I moved to Washington in 1998.  I love the hands-on experience, and working with people in restaurants and wine shops. I like the craftsmanship,” Sean said.

Olivier Rivière 2008 Rayos Uva Rioja

This picture is pretty accurate as to what it looked like to me after I polished it off.

*Bottle #85: Olivier Rivière 2008 Rayos Uva Rioja
*Price Tag: $18
*Running Tab: $1,179
*Retailer: Champion’s Wine Cellars, Seattle

When a eno-enthused Frenchman suggests a bottle of vino (regardless of its origin), you willingly accept. Even if the vintage isn’t listed, the varietals are unknown and the label is bland, you willingly accept. Especially when he is a client of yours…

Four hours later, with a failed cheese sauce (Harvati was a bad idea) for Trader Joe’s gnocchi that were accidentally boiled to a lovely soggy texture (don’t underestimate the recipe), any wine was needed.

Enter the Frenchman’s Spanish Rioja rec: the 2008 “Rayos Uva” from Olivier Rivière, Rioja made by a Frenchman… Getting the connection here…

Bottleology – Desert Wind Winery with Greg Fries

Winemaker Greg Fries of Desert Wind Winery

Whether it’s a trip to your local grocer, a voyage through the back roads of the Northwest wine country, perhaps the magnetic draw into your favorite wine shop, or an in-depth read of your favorite WINO Magazine blog entry (Bottleology!), I can pretty much guarantee that you will cross paths with Greg Fries—or at least have a run-in with his value driven wines.

Greg Fries is a really nice guy, but FAR more importantly, Greg Fries is a winemaker. He’s worked very hard to get to where he is today, and he has spent many years managing and making wine for his very own Desert Wind Winery.  With the help of one very influential woman (Ms. Mother Nature—strictly business), some great vineyard sites in Eastern Washington and Oregon, a degree from UC Davis and a pilot’s license, Greg has been able to contribute to the world of wine in a big way.

[Purple] HAZE-lnuts: Commonly referred to as “filberts,” these nuts can be found all over Oregon. I refer to them as Greg’s family’s “gateway crop,” a crop that they ultimately replanted into vast g rapevine vineyards (vitis vinifera). When Greg was younger, his family farmed cotton and tomatoes in Californ ia. Growing up in that kind of environment most likely sparked his interest in agriculture and also played a key role in Greg’s decision to go to school for Agricultural business.

You See!: Going to school and getting an education CAN be fun! At UC Davis, Greg earned a degree in Fermentation Science. He took a beer brewing course, and as luck would have it, while he was there, his family started a winery!  It’s called Duck Pond Cellars. JEALOUS!!!

The Local Vine presents Washington vs. The World

Please join The Local Vine for an exclusive series of classes beginning Monday February 8th. Featuring eight of the world’s most respected winemakers, we will be tasting the wines they craft from both Washington and the regions that made them famous. Including wines made by Randy Dunn, Ernst Loosen, Philipe Melka and Piero Antinori this is a rare opportunity to indulge, learn, and experience first-hand the revolutionary impact Washington wine is making on the world stage.

All classes are from 6:00 – 7:00 and the cost is $25 per tasting or $80 for all four. This includes 10% off any additional food or wine purchases made the evening of the event. Each class will be limited to 12 people and we expect them to sell out fast.

For additional information or to make reservations please call 206-280-1429 or e-mail cole@thelocalvine.com.

Each tasting will feature a dynamic flight of four wines, two from each winemaker, guided by one of Washington’s wine industry leaders. Each flight will be served blind in order to highlight Washington’s quality and fantastic value.

Our goal is to share and explore the complex flavors of Washington’s amazing terroir as interpreted by the hands of some of the world’s most revered winemakers. Each tasting will showcase wines, often rare, made from the same varietals and the same winemaker.

Pappas Wine Co. 2008 Pinot Blanc

Pops in the light, dunnin it?

*Bottle #84: Pappas Wine Co. 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc
*Price Tag: $16
*Running Tab: $1,161
*Retailer: Sixth Avenue Wine Seller, Pacific Place, Seattle

From what I’ve been told, husband and wife operated-companies can be the best of times and the worst of times. I would think the path to doom comes down to the fact that you take your work home with you and take your home to work with you.

However, when it comes to any type of relationship, be it with your business or soul mate, it all about the effort put forth that makes it a success.

Likewise, when husband and wife duo, Stewart Boedecker and Athena Pappas, couldn’t come together on winemaking styles, they did what any stubborn individual would do – go their own way and try to kick more ass than your opponent, er, partner, with an outcome of two critically-acclaimed styles. And that’s just about their Pinot Noirs.

23rd Annual Retrospective of Northwest Wines Competition Announced

Recently, Ray’s Boathouse Restaurant on Shilshole Bay in Seattle, conducted its 23rd Retrospective of Northwest Wines Competition. On January 5th and 6th, Ray’s wine director Richard Kelsey assembled a panel of judges consisting of sommeliers, wine writers and local wine experts (including WINO’s Dave Bender) to blind-taste Northwest wines released in 2009. The wines were submitted for judging by the winemakers and their distributors, and all Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia wineries that produce grape-based wines were eligible to participate.

This year, 479 wines were submitted in twelve categories. During the blind-tasting, the judges meticulously evaluated the wines for characteristics such as flavor, texture, aroma and finish. Each judge assigned a numerical score based on their evaluation, and the wines with the highest combined scores won.

The second half of the Retrospective event is the dinner. On January 29, the top-scoring wines will be artfully paired with a menu created by Ray’s Executive Chef Peter Birk and presented in Ray’s waterfront banquet room with the winning winemakers in attendance (information below).

“OK, OK, tell us the winners already!” All right, without further ado, here are the top five wines in each category:

Round Table: Walla Walla, Pt. 4

The last installment of the Walla Walla Round Table, we bring you the Syrahs (at long last!). Not nearly a complete list of everything Walla2 has to offer, our Round Table session with scads of bottles brought back from Walla Walla was a daunting one. But, with a panel rostered with seasoned and disciplined professionals, we studiously worked our way through the lineup to bring you a mere sampling of our long weekend in Onion Town. Now, you’ll have to get over there yourself to try these and the myriad other wines flowing through the land of many rivers.

The Syrahs

Saviah Cellars
2006 Syrah
Red Mountain
$30

On the nose, striking notes of dark fruit and smoked meats with floral characteristics peaking through. On the palate, it has even more sizzle and pep, with smoke, meat and intense, dark fruit seasoned with anise, while maintaining a surprising freshness. Expressive and complex, it’s the total package of Syrahs. An overall favorite of the panel.

Saviah Cellars
2006 Syrah
Walla Walla Valley
$32

With less oak than you would expect, this WWV Syrah greets you with herbs and spices. Light and elegant on the palate, it’s a refreshing switch from the intensity of most Syrahs, while it still has enough oomph to go the distance on the finish with flavors of cherries, plums and olives.

Qupe 2007 Santa Ynez Valley Marsanne

Uncharted varietal in the spotlight.

*Bottle #83: Qupe 2007 Santa Ynez Valley Marsanne
*Price Tag: $18 (fortuitous luck with a half bottle for $6)
*Running Tab: $1,145

Spotted. Frozen in front of her laptop for an attempted non-work related typing sesh. Has Erin Thomas’ composition style hit a rough patch or has she just turned a lazy corner onto Excuse Street?

Some have tried to disparage with snarky Twitter remarks, explicit commentary by pissed-off industry folk have been posted and eye-rolls performed in perfect tween disposition were witnessed.

But despite criticisms and a recent 16 day absence, I am back. 2010 is my masochistic bitch and wine is my slightly sexy, slightly scary whip.

All of that excessive verbiage being said… With a vengeance, my resolution is to suck up my burnout due to job madness and still pump out some quality prose for your reading pleasure.

Wine Find: Angelo’s Ristorante

At Angelo’s, you’re more than a customer–you’re a friend

By Chris Nishiwaki

Angelo’s Ristorante

601 SW 153rd ST
Burien,WA 98166
(206) 244-3555
www.angelosofburien.com

The original Angelo

Angelo’s Ristorante in Burien is the sort of Italian joint where the lady answering the phone relays a call to owner and wine director Frank Ricci with a hearty, “Hey Frankie! It’s for you,” for the entire dining room to hear.

It’s a family-owned, family joint. And Ricci treats his regulars, whom he refers to as friends, like family.

“They are good customers,” Ricci said. “I don’t know what else to call them.”

Ordering from the wine list is for the uninitiated at Angelo’s. Frank’s “friends” can pick the wines straight from the stable-temperature wine storage. The wine cellar features finds such as a verticals of Guado al Tasso (97 to 01), Ornellaia (97, 98, 00), 97 Sassicaia and 2000 Solaia. For the Washington wine drinker there are verticals of Leonetti Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon going back to 2000, verticals of Quilceda Creek (99 to 05), the entire portfolio from Long Shadows and boutique producer Soos Creek.

Corkage is $10 but waived if guests order a bottle from the list.

WINO Match-Maker: Branzino and Vino

Chester Gerl and Chris Lara Bring You the Perfect Pair

By Julien Perry

Chef Chester Gerl from Matt's in the Market

“What wine goes with this dish?” It’s a question WINO wants to help you answer by tapping into the wine libraries of those who know best. In this issue, chef Chester Gerl of Matt’s in the Market teams up with his wine director, Chris Lara, to bring you a knock-out dish with wines to match. From the bargain wine to the splurge, we’ve got you covered.

Roasted Branzino with Manila Clams, Spanish Chorizo, Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes and Purple Tomatoes

This recipe has all the bright colors of spring, but is perfect for fall. Chef Chester Gerl took inspiration from Pike Place Market to create this dish, which he recently presented at the James Beard House in NYC. Almost everything in this recipe was purchased from the Market—from the signature spice blend courtesy of Market Spice, to the branzino and clams. The tomatillos, however, are from Chester’s personal garden. The apple-sweet fruit will be gone by the first frost, but can be found in most supermarkets year-round.

Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot

Ain’t Nothin’ Small About ‘Em

By Christine Go

Petite Sirah

Does size matter? Well, it does if you’re talking about grapes, namely Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot. These varietals produce big, bold wines, so why are they called “petite?”  Give up? Because of the size of the grapes! Apparently both varietals have small berries, so they have a high skin-to-juice ratio. Since color and tannins come primarily from the skin and seeds of the grapes, more skin equals more color and tannins, which translates to tooth-staining wines with lots of structure.

So Petite Sirah isn’t petite, but is it related to Syrah? There’s been a lot of confusion about the origin of Petite Sirah, and it’s taken about a hundred years to figure out the answer to that question. If you check out the timeline on the “P.S. I Love You” website (an advocacy group for Petite Sirah), you’ll see that Syrah first came to California from France in 1878, but some called it Petite Syrah. Then, a few years later, a French varietal called Durif (named after the grape grower who propagated it) was introduced to California, and it was called Petite Sirah, since that was its common name in France.

We now know that Syrah/Petite Syrah is not the same as Petite Sirah/Durif, but they are related. In 1997, Carole Meredith, a professor at UC Davis, did a DNA analysis of Petite Sirah compared to Durif, and discovered that they are indeed the same. It turns out that Syrah and Peloursin, an obscure French varietal, are the parents of Petite Sirah. Syrah is prone to a fungus called “powdery mildew,” something familiar to gardeners in Western Washington, and originally Petite Sirah was developed to be resistant to it; but in humid climates, Petite Sirah is prone to another fungus called “grey rot.” This is why Petite Sirah does well in drier grape-growing regions. Today the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) recognizes Durif and Petite Sirah as synonyms for the same grape. And just to add to the confusion, some wineries label their Petite Sirah as “Petite Syrah” even though it is not the same as Syrah.

A New Perspective on the Retrospective of Northwest Wines—Your Back Stage Pass

The Retrospective of Northwest Wines is a competition held annually for the past twenty-three years at Ray’s Boathouse in Seattle, Washington. The scores are in, and are being tallied as we speak—the wines were judged on January 5^th & 6^th from 12-2pm each day. In order for a winery to participate in this blind competition, two wine samples must be submitted per winery, and each winery must be prepared to have two cases available for purchase by Ray’s Boathouse if they win! The cases of the winning wines will be served at the awards dinner. All Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia wineries that produce wines made from the beloved grape were eligible to participate. This is really a great event for the wineries; because it’s free to enter, and it allows their wine an opportunity to stand out amongst a pack of 450+ entries.  Smelling, tasting, swirling and spitting these wines were a team of DEDICATED Sommeliers (yours truly), Wine Writers and local wine experts. Wine Director Richard Kelsey organized the tasting, along with his honed professional wine staff, all of whom showcased an absolute professionalism likely developed from the many years of working this event.

With that in mind, I’d like to share with you an inside look at the event from my perspective as one of the elected wine judges, and more specifically, what I found in the categories I tasted.  I’ll preface by telling you I make no official claims, I can ONLY to tell you which wines ultimately stood out to ME—whose names I learned AFTER turning in my score cards. There were also four judges per category, so my results alone will only contribute to the overall scoring of that particular category.

Tavern Law

The folks behind Spur Gastropub bring you a new craft cocktail experience

By Rocky Yeh

Dana Tough & Brian McCracken of Tavern Law

Tavern Law

1406 12th Ave
Seattle, WA 98122-3906
(206) 322-9734
www.tavernlaw.com

Tucked away in a condo building on Capitol Hill, Tavern Law is Seattle’s newest addition to the craft cocktail scene. Brought to you by the team behind Spur Gastropub, chefs/owners Brian McCracken and Dana Tough, along with bar manager David Nelson, further extend their vision of good food paired with exceptional drink.

Walking in the front door, you are immediately struck by the comfortable woods and long curving bar inviting you to relax and absorb the speakeasy vibe. The tall shelves of legal tomes set the scene to reinforce the name and image while wrapping you in its masculine embrace. An extensive menu heavy on concoctions from the golden age of cocktails makes for great reading as you settle in to decide on your libation of choice. Syrups and tinctures are made in-house, and juice is fresh squeezed for each drink.

Top Ten Reasons to Buy Tickets to the Seattle Food & Wine Experience

If you live near the Seattle area, it seems that there is always and forever a new food and wine extravaganza popping up…ain’t it grand?

Well, there’s another one. For the last couple of weeks, you’ve seen the banner on the WINO Magazine website instructing you to save the date for the Seattle Food & Wine Experience, and hopefully you have, because we don’t just throw these things up there. This event looks spectacular.

In case you’re not convinced, the folks over at the Seattle Food & Wine Experience have compiled a list of Top 10 Reasons to buy tix. Read on, and then get your tickets right away. We’ll see you there.

Top Ten Reasons to Buy Tickets

10. All ticket buyers are immediately entered in a drawing for the chance to win a wine touring package for 10 provided by Butler Transportation.

9. The Maximus/Minimus pig truck will be out of hibernation for the day!

8. Artisan beer garden sponsored by Peroni.

7. Only $49 for Earth & Ocean, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, Ponti Seafood Grill, Ray’s Boathouse Restaurant, John Sarich – Chateau Ste. Michelle, Salty’s on Alki, TASTE Sam, The Hunt Club, Bradley and Mikel’s Pearl Dining & Bar, Pike Place Brewery, Artisanal Brasserie & The Artisanal Table, Andaluca, Blackfish, Frost Doughnuts, Cedarbrook Lodge, Campagne, Cicchetti Kitchen and Bar and Tulalip Bay!!!

6. Try a three way! It’s between you, Menage a Trois wine and American Lamb prepared three different ways by Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse.

5. Catch your second wind in the Starbucks coffee and music lounge and then go back for more.

4. Support an awesome cause. Proceeds from the ticket sales will benefit Beecher’s Flagship Foundation – a program that teaches youth about pure food nutrition.

3. Get excited that you are going each time you read updates about it on facebook and twitter.

2. Discover another reason to hit the Tulalip Resort Casino. Their fabulous Taste of Tulalip chefs will be featured on our culinary exhibition stage.

1. WINE! Wine from Washington, California, Oregon. Wine from France, Italy and Germany. Wine from Portugal and Spain. Wine from Argentina. Wine from Chile. Wine from South Africa. Wine from Australia and New Zealand. And did we mention WINE?!

Wine Kiosks Planned for Pennsylvania Supermarkets

When I first saw this report, I thought to myself, “Wow, how convenient!”

Wine Kiosk in Pennsylvania

I mean, just imagine if you could walk up to a machine, stick your ID in there, look into a camera so a remote LCB agent can confirm you’re the person on your ID through video technology, breathe toward a sensor to assure the machine that your blood-alcohol level is below .05%, make your selection, and have the bottle of wine come tumbling down the slot. Right there in grocery store! Shazaam, the convenience of modern technology!

The manager of Grove City County Market,Dave Knopp, is reported to have said, “Anything we can do to make an experience more convenient to our customers, and offer them another choice, we would like to do that for our customers.”

The only thing I can think of that would be more convenient for customers than this would be to stock the shelves of a whole aisle–or section, even!–in the grocery store, and let customers just cherry-pick their selections right from the shelf. That would just be awesome. That and ordering a glass of wine at the McDonald’s drive-thru.

Perhaps someday, just maybe society will progress to that Utopian level somewhere.

Bottleology – Quilceda Creek with Paul Golitzin

A reckoning in Washington wine has occurred and you may have missed it—but it’s not too late.  A number of variables have contributed to great wine production here in Washington, most specifically Quilceda Creek Winery and its uncompromising efforts in their mastering of Cabernet Sauvignon. These wines have the ability to change your life—they changed mine.  Here are a few words from the maker, Paul Golitzin, and my tasting notes from his new release.

Paul Golitzen of Quilceda Creek Winery

Think Locally, Act Globally: A short forty minute drive from Seattle gets you to the front door of Quilceda Creek Winery.  Paul says he’s “trying to make a wine, consistently, that can compete on a global scale and be second to none.” He credits much of Washington State’s wine success to the growing conditions and lack of maritime influence. I’d just like to credit the thirsty Washington wine consumer who day-in and day-out continues to support Washington wines success by drinking them!

S.O.L.: For those of you aspiring to make wine at the level of Paul Golitzen, I have some sad news for you:  If you didn’t start your career path at the age of seven like him (he helped his father in the cellar), it may be too late. Paul credits many past life experiences to his wine advancements, and here are three main contributers: a trip to France at age fifteen began his passion for wine; support and guidance from great mentors–his Great Uncle, Andre Tchelistcheff, his son Dimitri, (who makes wine for Jarvis in CA) and his father; and a “holy grail” moment in the company of a 1989 Haut Brion.